1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Dredging my memory:
At that mileage, leave the bottom end alone: that includes leaving any build-up that is at the top of the bore or on the piston crowns.
The apparatus I have for pressure testing can be used with the cam and tower in place, but your local machien shop my want them removed. Either way, it's not a big deal. They will want all gasket surfaces cleaned first though. Scrape carefully, so as not to make any gouges. I do not recommend any type of "power" gasket removal.
Have them check the head for warpage, and only have it milled if necessary, and as little as possible. The spot between #2 and #3 is the most likely place you'll see a problem.
You can wire brush the chambers if you want, but don't worry about deposits there, unless they're excessive. Even if you make it spotless, the deposits will be back shortly. Look carefully at the deposits first though, as they can indicate trouble. If one cylinder (usually #2 or #3) has different color deposits, or looks cleaner, you may have a crack or a head gasket problem. The steam clean things a little.
You can do a "cheap and dirty" check for valve sealing before sending it out by turning the head over and putting cleaning solvent in the chambers. Fill them up to the gasket surface and leave it for an hour. All four chambers should show the same level on your return; hopefully still nearly full. This check requires removal of the cam, by the way. Now that I think about it, it's probably a good idea to remove the cam and tower anyway. There were a number of different cams, so you may want to use your original on the new head.
And another thing. When the cam is off and the valve springs exposed, inspect the springs. If the exhaust springs (particularly #2 and #3) have a lot more crud build-up, you may have worn guides.
posted by 64.168.14...
, Fri, 17 Sep 2004 07:51:47
, Fri, 17 Sep 2004 17:16:44, Fri, 17 Sep 2004 18:08:10, Sat, 18 Sep 2004 12:09:51
1, Sat, 18 Sep 2004 00:10:28
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