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Re: It wasn't that bad......... Posted by DougM [Email]  (#211)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from DougM) on Wed, 7 Jun 2006 22:26:34
In Reply to: Re: It wasn't that bad........., Kevin, Wed, 7 Jun 2006 19:45:20 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I guess the true test is when it hits the red line(reserve) as I get low > roughly 2 gallons left in the tank, and the light comes on. I tested the old gauge before tearing it apart to verify nothing was burned up, and it also read 3/4 tank, so it wasn't so accurate either. When I was working on the project this evening, I noticed the bulb holder was missing from the low fuel light area...hmm, I could have sworn my light used to work.
I placed the needle at the bottom, but the gauge sort of pegs well below the whole range when it shuts down(I noted the general area before popping the needle off), but there has to be an exact science when they build those gauges I would think.
I had reservations about popping the needles off because I did some work to a speedometer a few years back and the gauge always read 10 mph different than my actual speed, so it's not as easy as it looks.
While I was in there I also fixed a battery drain problem. The turn signal dash light never blinked ater the initial blink, and it was dimly lit while the car was off. Pulled the flasher relay and removed the cover, and found some burnt looking areas. I was able to locate a few relays in the basement, but the first one I tried didn't work at all. The second one worked like new.
One other problem I should take care of too. The speedometer just started not working below 25 mph, works fine in the 25-40 mph range, then gets jumpy above 45. It has always been jumpy at higher speeds, but the non-working below 25 is new. Even the '83 speedometer acts the same way, so I'm thinking replace the cable. I'm pretty sure I bought a new cable from Jack Lawrence at SOC05 last year, and I hope it's the right length. The one in there now is too short and I have to remove the lower dash piece and reach my hand up from below to screw it onto the back of the speedometer < pain in the ass to swap a cluster that way. I think the very early cables just had a grey metal housing and the later were fatter with a layer of rubber covering it. The fatter cable makes it tighter to snake around the early brake boosters, thus making it just short enough to cause connection issues when hooking the cluster back up.
posted by 70.39.32...
, Sun, 4 Jun 2006 16:42:00, Tue, 6 Jun 2006 19:06:14, Wed, 7 Jun 2006 18:46:12, Wed, 7 Jun 2006 22:26:34 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 8 Jun 2006 15:46:42, Fri, 9 Jun 2006 05:08:04, Sat, 10 Jun 2006 06:16:52, Sat, 10 Jun 2006 10:59:32
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