1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
"Does this information help you help me? Thanks so much!"
Well some, but not enough. Please clearly answer the questions in my post, did you change 1 rotor or 2 with new, you appear to say both at different times. Did you try the park brake test to identify a problem from the rear. Did you clean the rust/debris from all four surfaces on each side. It is hard to help you further, which I am delighted to do, without clear information on these points, which you have not paid enough attention to. How did you decide which side had the problem. Does the steering wheel shake while braking.
Additional questions: 1) How worn were your old pads, and was wear upon inspection your only reason for changing them? On this oddball design with angled pads, the time to change them IMHO is when any one is worn to even thickness, or when any show odd wear patterns. I am not looking it up right now but believe that is consistent with factory recommendation. 2) What was condition of the old rotors on the wear surfaces where the pads go? Flat and smooth, wavy, grooved, with a lip on the outer edge of the wear surfaces? Was rotor condition the same on both sides of each? 3) What was condition of the rotors on the mounting surfaces, and of the corresponding mounting surfaces of the hub (inner) and wheel (outer)? 4) Did you examine these four surfaces per side and clean them? 5)Did the caliper pistons slide back in easily? 6) Did you open the bleeder screws while compressing the pistons to let the old brake fluid out? (I know the answer to that one, but say anyway.)
This diagnosis by telephone or email is difficult but I have done it a lot and think I am pretty good at it. I have helped people solve many problems over the phone without ever seeing the person or the vehicle. (Not all, I am not a magician.) However it cannot proceed without clear information from your end and I think you are dropping the ball there. Please read carefully and answer clearly and fully. K
posted by 198.69.250...
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