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What pads are you using? Pad deposits on the rotors, perhaps .001 thick or less, -uneven- and not visable*, can make a true rotor act warped. And the sudden brief stopping events that you describe are exactly the thing that can cause this to happen. Does not happen with Saab's OEM pads, but known to happen with aftermarket pads, most famously EBC GreenStuff.
* in some cases a dial indicator will not show that the rotor is out of true at all
Happened to me in a sudden event as you describe and I was able to burn if off and restore perfectly smooth operation. I suspect that if this is not done, and ignored, the uneven heating of this eneven braking could create a physical distortion of the rotors.
When rotors are removed, the hub mounting surface between the hub and rotor can be rusted. These rust deposits should be removed so that the new rotor is seating on a true flat surface. I have trouble seening the wheels as a common cause, but the pads might be. Read the link to essntial reading. I agree with what is stated, but I feel that the new pad burn-in and rotor annealing process is really too extreme. I do feel that some pads, including greenstuff, do require a burn-in and that the greenstuff pads are not the right pad for those who brake gently all of the time. For those who work their brakes hard frequently, organic rich pads are a good choice. And pads that require a depth of technical understanding of the owner are really the wrong pads for many who are not technically oriented. So some brake pads that work better and perform better are not for everyone!
Have you tried burning the warped rotors off?
When you read the link, note the distinction between abrasive friction and adhesive friction.
posted by 66.142.222...
Link to warped rotor myth article
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