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suspension issues and mods
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Posted by Dean [Email] (more from Dean) on Sun, 10 Jul 2005 06:28:24 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Suspension Specs, Lawrence, Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:04:50
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The rear SB is easy to install and only attaches to the axle. The front mounts to the control arms and to the body. To R&R the front SB, the subframe needs to be partly lowered, which creates other steps and complications. So costly to install. And I do not know if there are any stiffer/better aftermarket swaybars available.

The vehicle seems to do very nicely with the original front sway bars.

There are two different diameter front SB's available and two different bushings for the two diameters. The 'Sports chassis' has the thicker SB and stiffer shocks. You should have that SB already. If the rubber bushings for the attachment of the SB link to the control arm are loose from aging and compression, tighening these down a bit more when doing the front struts would be of some advantage... less of a sloppy or soft zone.... but the change may not be significant. Do not do this before strut work... as some find the lower bushing nut breaking the treaded section off. Some care might be needed to avoid breaking that part. And there are poly front SB bushings that might also reduce slop in the soft parts, and perhaps poly bushings for the SB to control arm link attachment.

Otherwise, the rear sway bar really reduces the work that the front SB needs to do.

I would expect that a 1997 would be needing new front shocks and upper mounts*... but I can't see your miles in previous posts. What the front end does need is a steering clamp/bace mod and perhaps poly bushings and/or subframe brace. You would be better off first with money into max performance tires than the last two mods. Tires are always the limiting factor and good suspension setup that over powers the tires tractive abilities is not where you are wanting to go.

* with this vehilce it is easy to -not know- that the front shocks have become inadequate

So forget the front SB, do just the rear, replace front shocks and upper mounts if tired. Next would be rack clamp/brace and proper tires to take advantage of the changed setup. Later you can go for the SF brace and/or poly bushings if inspired. You can get very good performance out of 16" wheels with the right tires. 17" rims make tires all the more expensive and the rims are then at greater risk of been bent. The front suspension has quite limited travel** that contributes to rims getting bent. Weak shocks make that all the worse. Lowering springs reduce the travel of the struts even more. The front does very well with adjustable Koni shocks, but they are costly. If you were to do the last two mods, you would be wanting shocks in this class of performance.

** When doing strut replacement, the bump stop, which simply slides over the shaft, can be cut down by cutting at the 'waist' to remove 1" or a bit more of the 'poly' material from the bottom of the bump stop. This allows the shock to have greater range of free motion in which it can absorb rebound energy. Not many have done this, but it has worked very well with good shocks. This can undo some of the travel limitations imposed by lower springs as well. Ride is improved as well. Less riding on the bump stops on -hard- turns. But note that the rear SB will also be reducing the body roll that would otherwise put the front inside strut onto the bump stops in -hard- cornering.
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