1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Sodium can be from salt dust or spray on winter roads. Silicon can be from dust. Some of the above might be residual coolant contamination from the HG event or work. Check for leaks around air filter perimeter and clamps etc***. Check for leaks in the turbo ducts up to the turbo compressor. With the T5, there can be such leaks and without a MAF, you would be none the wiser.
*** K&N type filters should never be switched end to end as the surround compresses and conforms to the air box which gets out of shape from heat and time. If swapped, I have seen dirt and water paths around the perimeter.
The chrome/nickel suggests piston ring wear. That can be from fouled fuel injectors that "wash the walls". Higher fuel contamination occurs in all turbo charged engines. Excessive blow by gasses can be a reason. Stuck piston rings can do this. Techron Concentrate* will fix injector problems and will probably help free up sticking rings. An add-to-oil product** that claims to free up sticking rings would be a good idea. Should feel watery in the can. Never use anything like STP that feels thick. You could also use auto-RX. You might want to run the oil addive more than once. Use for a period before you plan to change the oil. Do not use such then take a sample for lab work as that could do two things... release metals bound up in varnish and create wild fuel contamination numbers
*use the 20 ounce bottle if never used before. Repeat every 8K or 3x/year with the smaller bottle. Must be the "concentrate"!
** will be a smaller container. Some larger containers are flushes and can only be added, engine started and idled till hot then drained. If you put a load on the engine with one of those, even driving up ramps, damage can occur. So study the products before you buy and use correctly.
You need sustained highway miles at full temperature to drive off fuel contamination. But note that today's RFG-II -III fuels are low volatility and will raise fuel contamination levels. In my (turbo) engines, the oil always smells like fuel, even when I commuted 80 miles RT per day.
MO is from the original oil. Tin and copper are bearing wear. Switch to Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W40**** and use Purolator PureOne PL10241. You engine will feel quieter and smoother. Doing the TBTC mod*** will also improve power and smoothness.
*** only for T5 systems, 1994-1999 (excluding 1999 Viggen)
**** found at many WalMart stores, perhaps in 1 gallon size too
Your low miles for a 1999 suggest shorter trips. You oil change frequency may be what is called for and perhaps not as excessively caring as you might have thought. I think that the oil that I suggest will help a lot and will be fine for those change intervals.
I would do the above and then not worry about the fuel contamination numbers. If you see tin, copper, nickel and chrome go down, you then know that things are working better. The fuel contamination levels may be normal for this engine when in perfect condition. These engines really do run better on the xW4o oils when not new and the running clearances have increased. I strongly recommend that folks not use any xW30 oils at all. This engine in its current production uses xW40 oils from new.
When metal contamination has increased, it can take a few oil changes to remove traces of that, even when the cause of excessive wear is removed. Wear metals of iron, steel (chains, cams, followers, sprockets), nickel, chrome are hard and too small for the filter to remove, these circulate and create wear themselves in areas of thin boundary lubrication. A good magnet in the oil system can remove the iron and steel<--(containing nickel and chrome) and thus reduce wear. But do not be alarmed, these wear metals away do occur and engines do wear down over time.
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
