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Thanks for the info - but luckily the problem was just the upper (smaller/grooved) pulley. I slipped the serp. belt off that pulley & the PS pump pulley then started the motor - no more noise! The problematic pulley was sorely on need of lube & spun like a cheap skate board wheel...despite my only having replaced a year ago.
I thought we had gone 10k on the car since then, but it's closer to 17k - still, the original & subsequent replacement pulleys have all lasted a predictable 50k before starting to groan. The parts (upper/lower pulleys & belt) I put on last year were all from eEuro & should have been top quality - I'll see what they have to say about their pulley failing so quickly, but I've already removed it & fortified the bearing w/some Mobil 1 synthetic grease, so maybe it'll be OK.
FYI - regreasing the pulleys is pretty simple - you just remove the air filter box, partially slip off the belt, remove the pulleys, gently pry off the seals w/a dentists plaque pick (or similar) from the inner/smaller lip, pack in your favorite grease, reinstall the seals & bada bing...I had both the upper & lower out, relubed & back in within 30min...well 45min anyway ;) I did the same thing in Dec. 05' when the last pulley started to go (just prior to replacing everything) to buy some time while I put an eEuro parts order together (needed a bunch of stuff for multiple Saabs). The relube quited things down, but the pulley had 48k on it & was obviously done...however it went another 5k without any noise. After installing new parts, I then planned on relubing both pulleys every 25k thereafter as it was a pretty easy job & I figured I could possibly get twice the life out of them...but now I wonder.
The lower pulley in all cases was still serviceable, though I always replace it along with the upper as a preventative measure - the belt too, but all have come off looking healthy. I put a new tensioner pulley on at 150k because it looked a bit tired - which is still going strong w/70k on it now & spins smoothly. There's a pulley elimination 'how to' on the FAQ board - you bypass the lower pulley by using a shorter belt, which saves around half the cost.
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Soooo, here's some info regarding the balance shafts: 2.3l eng. 100% highway mi w/10k mi oil change (non-synthetic) intervals up to 150k...3k to 4k 50/50 syn/reg Mobil oil changes from then on. At 177k the balance shaft chain started making a grinding noise that got REALLY bad within two days of our first noticing it. Working in January sub freezing temps in an unheated garage...still a blessing - we've no garage & a gravel driveway now :( ...I plotted my attack - I had no intention of removing the motor for a bunch of reasons I won't bore you with (hey - wake up!!! ;) so I fashioned an engine support out of a 2x4x8, supported the motor, loosened the motor mounts, raised up the whole business & secured it to the 2x4 w/5' of rope wrapped over & over again - sounds ridiculous, but it worked perfectly - lowered the subframe & oil pan, then shimmed the eng/trans as far to the drivers side as it would go. I had just enough room to get a torx bit on a 3/8 socket between the TC & right inner fender - but not enough for a ratchet :[ so I had to use a big pair of vice grips...slow going, but it worked.
The oil pump snap ring (hefty) nearly took my head off when I pried it out (all I had was whimpy c-clip pilers, which broke), so be careful there! The problem was immediately apparent - the balance shaft sprockets had NO TEETH ON THEM! The chain had been spinning around the toothless sprockets & with too much slack for the tensioner to take up, also was eating into the timing cover's oil pump housing. If we had driven the car another day, the TC would have been trashed...try finding one of those!
I purchased a "block off kit" for the oil fed tensioner (so oil pressure isn't lost) for $30 from Conn-Tech motors (Saab indie in Cranston RI) which consisted of an a small steel plate w/appropriately spaced holes & two short screws (the ones holding the tensioner are too long) & an aluminum spacer to replace the chain slider. I was told to use 'anearobic' sealant under the plate + for the TC & oil pan - it only cures in the absence of oxygen, so any over application won't end up clogging oil passages.
All told, the operation was very successful & the car has been great ever since! The increased vibration is minimal...we don't even notice a difference really...& I had also ditched the (leaking) hydraulic motor mounts for solid rubber ones, which would only amplify any vibration.
Obviously, opinions vary & Saab wouldn't have engineered balance shafts into nearly every engine they produced after 1993 without a reason - but given the cost of a "textbook" repair...I would heartily recommend eliminating the setup. Do you ever find yourself near Providence RI? You're welcome to take the car for a drive & see for yourself :)
I posted the results of the work back in Feb 2004 under the name "cold toes diy'er" with the subject reading "results of balance shaft elimination kit install". You could punch up a search for that on this board for giggles. There's TONS of balance shaft related postings here actually - have fun!
Something else I encountered may be of interest of you - the 94'/95' 900's had "brake pressure reduction valves" at the rear brake calipers...ours were really rusty & when I poked one w/a screwdriver to knock off some scale, the fucXer started seeping brake fluid! New valves & hoses were around $200. Saab changed the setup, doing away with those valves (they look like fat AA batteries) after 1995. Good Luck!
posted by 68.99.169...
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