1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Tips:
Loosen axle nut on ground before starting anything. Big breaker bar, impact quality socket. If you can't get it loose, visit a local garage and have someone break them free with an air hammer. I think you car should have the little caps over the nuts, so at least there won't be rust. There will be 200# of torque.
When pulling the tie rod, use the pitman arm puller he shows. Pull the nut all the way off, then put it back on 1/4" by hand to keep it from going wild when it pops.
I'll wager that your swaybar links are fairly rusted. If so, you will end up cutting them off and getting new ones.
Platonoff advises removing the ABS sensor bracket. Good luck, even with that. You may need to purchase new brackets.
Peen the edges of the rotor screw allen entry before sticking a wrench in there and turning. It wil give you a better fit. A little PB Blast on the rotor screw as best you can, and maybe some heat before you start. Otherwise it's a long day drilling and extracting.
You can either remove the control arms, or split the ball joint and just lever down the control arm to get the strut out. I've done it both ways. If you go the ball joint route, it might be wise to have some boots on hand. It's hard to split without hitting the boot.
You do not need to touch the Stanchion arms if you're not changing bushings.
I'd try to break the top nut on the strut free when the strut is still in the car. Don't remove it at all, but try to get it to crack free while the strut is still bolted at the top, then leave it tight. If not, you can use vise grips on the old strut rod once it's out of the car.
Buy new tie rods end nuts, ball joint nuts, and rotor screws. Antisieze on the rotor screws when you reassemble. Clean your hub center with a wire brush and/or file and put a little antisieze there too so the wheels don't stick next time. You might want to get sway bar links, and abs brackets if you absolutely need to be done in a day. Consider new bearings for the struts, especially if you get noises when turning. I would not get new mounts unless you know your are bad before you inspect them, unless money isn't a concern.
I don't know if you need a new axle nut on a 9-3. I haven't done mine yet. On the NG900, it's a one-time use jam nut. At some point they went to a more traditional covered, castleated nut that I think takes a cotter pin to secure it. If that's what you have, they do not need replacement.
posted by 71.174.89...
, Sun, 14 Aug 2011 10:07:48
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