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Synthetics are better lubricants and in the face of lubrication related wear failure you need a better lubricant. Try a 10W40 later on. I think that you will find that the engine runs smoother and quieter.
The timing chain is tensioned with a hydraulic tensioner, that is more like a shoe than a pully. The shoe can wear and should be replaced while the chain is removed etc. The oil pump pickup screen needs to be inspected and cleaned. The oil pump should be removed and inspected for wear and scoring.
Note that the balance chains seem to be more prone to failure, and the sprockets wear badly. And the noise would be the same or very similar, so that may be the problem.
The engine will be ok if the oil intake screen has not been plugged to the point of sustained inadequate oil pressure. Note that metal wear particles themselves contribute to oil oxidation and breakdown. There have been some reports of the lube oil turning to sludge.
After the engine is rebuilt, I suggest running a thicker dyno oil and change the oil and filter twice after one week, and use an engine solvent flush product, and take note of the instructions not to have any load on the engine after the flush is added. So you can't drive on to ramps after adding etc. Then do to a 10W40 or 5W40 synthetic.
The dyno for the one week oil changes can be inexpensive as you don't need to worry about addative package depletion. Just get a W40.
Additionally, I would do a flush after the engine is repaired, before it leaves the shop. If the engine is in marginal condition, perhaps a flush before the repair is questionable. The lubricity if the oil is reduced by the flushing solvents. That is why I suggest a W40 for the one week duration oil changes.
The point of the flushes is that there will be a lot of wear particles in the engine that are 30 microns and smaller. These will pass right through the filter and only oil draining will remove these.
posted by 208.24.179...
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