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But he did not say what plugs he had installed.
NGK BCRP6ES11's gapped at .039" (1mm) or .o35 if you like living dangerously works well. Non NGK is almost a certain garantee of problems, typically carbon deposits which end up missing at higher boost as the spark tracks across the carbon instead of across the spark gap.
All the plugs looking the same? Injectors clean?
And as always, check the battery terminals for a clean tight fit and electrolyte levels.
If you recently changed gas stations/brands etc, then go back to what you were using before. Just to eliminate another variable.
When you turn on your ignition, before youj crank the engine, does your CEL light come on, as it normallhy does. Just wondering about a duff CEL light. A long shot.
If the mixture is rich all of the time you should expect a CEL from an O2 sensor adaption problem.
Get some Techron Concentrate to clean your injectors. Run that a while then do a 20 mile highway run then check the plugs afterwards, with a minimum of city driving and avoiding boost. If they are still darkk after that then there is a problem. Plugs get deposits while on boost and burn clean while on non boost running. But non of this applies without the proper plugs.
Aa for the drop in mpg's, hot weather can be a problem as well as head and side winds. Check your cold tire pressures. You could have a brake dragging problem too. But work out the plug issues first and see how things are then.
And difficulty starting?
Check that the vac line between the trottle body and the manifold absolute pressure sensor does not have split ends etc. The MAP is screwed to the botton of the RH shocj tower brace tube (black).
posted by 65.68.100...
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