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You have it hooked up the same way as many others do. I know Dean has been experimenting with a valve to reduce pressure spikes and I'm curious on his findings and if he's dialed it in yet.
The boost guage on your dash is not a calibrated accruate guage, so theoretically, no two guages are going to read exactly the same. If you really want to know what's going on, buy and install a guage graduated in psi and you can see what the boost actually is. My guage burries into the red and this is before I hit fuel cut.
Will the turbo wear out quicker? Since the turbo is doing more work the answer is yes, BUT, there are Saabs around here with almost 200K miles with the original turbo, so it depends on how you care for the car, here are a few tips:
- Run synthetic oil
- Frequent changes 3K - 5K miles (everyone has an opinion on this)
- No boost with a cold turbo during winter months if you live in the north. Warm the car up, if you need to drive before it's warm, then do so easy.
- If the car was just run hard (on boost), let it idle down to cool the turbo and housing. The manifold does a great job absorbing heat and stays hot for some time.
The turbo used now are pretty reliable and easy to access. If a rebuild is needed you can do it yourself for around $100, provided it's bearings and seals and the housing has not been machined by the rotor. For some reason Turbos scare people and they think it's black magic and repairs cost thousands of dollars. This is true if the car is mistreated and you vist the dealer.
Consider the exhaust as the next mod with increased boost. Freeing up the back pressure also reduces the temps and the turbo is less taxed trying to get rid of the exhaust that has just done all the work. I run the Saab CAT back system (stainless) and love it. The SAS bar is also a great toy.
Hope this helps.
David M
posted by 209.122.235...
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