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Yep, there are other ways, which involve fooling the ECU. You can put a varible resister in the water temp wire that signals the ECU, this will make the ECU think that it needs to richen the mixture. This works pretty well, if you do not need to go rich enough that the ECU can't compensate when you are in closed loop, it can only adjust about 25%. It will be rich until the oxygen sensor is warm enough, but if your AIC works it will compensate.
If your car has LH 2.2 you can adjust the AMM, but the same applies, if you go too rich, the ECU can't compensate in closed loop. You can also alter the signal the AMM sends to the ECU, link below, page 4 & 5, (did buy the pot's, but didn't try it, went with a SDS programable ECU instead). Also almost tried an AMM off a Volvo 740 2.1 liter, maybe 2.3 Turbo, that was compatable with LH 2.2, the interior diameter of this is also larger and would allow more air to flow.
I have used the temp sensor trick; what you can do if you have to richen the mixture too much for the ECU to compensate in closed loop; is to have the circuit with the varible resister to only come into play when you are at WOT. The microswitch used for the A/C cutout can be modified for this, it actually switches at about 70 - 75 degrees throttle. You can pick them up for free if your pockets are big enough, or a few $ if you buy them at a recycler. I usually grab try to grab several when I buy something else and they let you have them, so it's still like, for free. It takes two of them to make what you want, it can be modified to open, (as in A/C cutout), or close a circuit. You need the extra contact from one to place in the other, there is a place for it, this will allow opening one circuit and closing another at the same time and you can still open the A/C circuit too.
I have the answers to your injector and RRFPR questions too, let me know if you are interested in my thoughts on these, let me know, if so, I'll post them later tonight or tomorrow.
, Sat, 26 May 2001 11:44:44
, Sat, 26 May 2001 15:48:51
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