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Re: would you mind elaborating on the temp sensor trick?n/m
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Posted by Beaudreau (more from Beaudreau) on Sat, 26 May 2001 10:13:34 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: would you mind elaborating on the temp sensor trick?n/m, kooch, Fri, 25 May 2001 23:04:24
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The truth is, there isn't much more to elaborate on. The Temp sensor is of the negative temperature coefficient(NTC)type, meaning that the resistance decreases with temperature. Just about any variable pot will work, I have even used the volume control off a small radio, so long as the resistance is zero at one end of the scale and around 10K ohms at the max end. When it is at zero, there will be no effect on the sensor signal to the ECU, increasing the resistance will make the ECU richen the mixture.

It doesn't matter which wire to the temp sensor you put the resister in, because what is really happening; is that the ECU is sending a fixed voltage (yellow wire, 5 volts I think), through the temp sensor to ground (black wire). The ECU is able to sense the resistance and make a trim adjustment to the preset fuel map.

I have a little harness that I've made up and use mostly for trouble shooting. Go to your local auto recycler, what you are looking for is the male end of an injector style connector, look closely at the engine wiring harnesses of Japanese cars and you'll find one eventually. You will also need the female side, any injector connector of the right type will do. Wire these together, with the pot wired into one side. You can then plug this directly between the temp sensor and your wiring harness, no cutting.

Keep in mind, that if your engine doesn't need the extra fuel, you will get starting and drivability problems, plus increased fuel usage. This is where a throttle angle switch and, or a pressure switch should be used to switch the circuits only when you need the richer mixture.

You should also monitor injector duty cycle, you still need a higher pressure FPR, RRFPR or larger injectors to get the desired results. I've made up another harness, just like the other one, no pot, with leads to run inside the car. I think one goes to the hot side of the injector and the other needs to be connected to the grounding point by the lifting lug, to get an accurate duty cycle reading. Using a multimeter that can measure duty cycle, you can then drive the car and know what your injectors are doing.
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