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Rubber shims.... I suggest that you forget that. This will lead to premature brake wear and decrease braking effort. Unless they are not between the pad and piston or slider face contact (front).
It will take a few days for things to settle out, wait a week at least.
If you don't have rear shims, perhaps you can post something about that in a week if they still make noise. Might be interesting to those who state that they serve no purpose.
Even warped and turned (bare unseasoned iron) rotors with seasoned pads will squeak for a while.
New pads will feel spongy and not provide effective braking until they are bedded in. This can be dangerous for a while... drive accordingly!
Noise with drilled rotors... not much of a surprize there! When in severe repeated braking and in competiton, the holes might generate more noise as they release pressure from the outgassing in multiple puffs as the holes rotate free of the pads. That is what they are meant to do. Perhaps that effect is not noticeable.. don't know. New pads will outgass more until they season. Nose all of the time, perhaps. Again, wait until things settle down. I have not heard any reports about grooves in this regard.
New pads will often feel spongy(sp?) until the outer surface consolidates and things season. Some of this is outgassing, but much not, as the brakes can feel weak and spongy until the pads season.
You braking will be more effective in sitations where the is enough heat generated to cause the pads to create enough gas generation that would otherwise cause the pads to float on a gas film. Better pads will be good ad resisting this outgassing on any rotor. For less severe braking and normal service, a standard rotor will generate more braking effort as it has more metal to pad friction surface actions. Wet pads can fade on a steam film!
Are the PBX pads meant for competition? Some HP performance pads have less effectiveness under normal driving conditons. My EBC green stuff street pads are very much stronger when they warm up. I don't know if that is characteristic of kelvar pads in general.
There issues are more complex that one might assume at first. I would like to know if stainless steel braded brake lines make much of a difference by themselves. If someone installs new oversized rotors, calipers pads and SS brakelines at the same time, the net effect of the SS braded lines would not be known. I know the theory, looking for hard observations.
Some buy these rotors for looks. The gold surface finish on the swept area is soon gone. Now well if stands up resisting rust in the holes, rim and hub area is not known to me. Marginal or nill in the long run I suspect.
Speaking of rotors, don't let service techs use '''torque''' sticks on your lug bolts. Do the gradual torque with a true torque wrench only. A minor deflector of the hub will show up later as a warped rotor, as rotor heating stress relieves things and allows the rotor to go out of true. Some shops will say that the delayed response means that the cause was something else... a testiment to there shallow depth of understanding things complex.. or their willingness to be deceptive. Steel wheels are more vulerable as they can be pulled out of plain so much easier that the rigid hub area of a good alloy wheel. In a severe situation, if they cause the hub flange to yeild and distort, the damage can be very expensive, and they would try even more to quirm out of responsibility. Note that mis-torquing a wheel can only lead to rotor deformation if the hub is pulled out of flat. So any rotor problems from overtorqing will involve hub deflection to some extent, elastic or in yield.
95SET, EBS green stuff V4 front, Axxis pads rear, standard aftermarket rotors and standard aftermarket rebuilt rear calipers.
posted by 209.172.208...
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