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Heat, blissful, comforting heat. My toes are no longer frozen!
I followed Buck's directions to fashion a CPVC extension to the turning arm, and it works fine. See this site sponsor's web page for more info and required pictures:
http://www.thesaabsite.com/95/95heaterboxrepair.html
Here's what I did:
Tools:
- a round file
- T25 torx driver
- short screwdriver
- 6mm nut driver
- a length of 1/2" CPVC pipe (this is the yellowish type that can take hot or cold water... it is NOT the pure white PVC pipe)
- a pipe cutter (optional)
- a fine tooth saw
- CPVC glue
- CPVC cleaner
1) remove the trim plate from above the driving pedals (4 torx screws), and remove the OBD connector (2 torx screws). Pull it backward towards you and out of its rear clip.
2) get on your back and put your head into the driver's side footwell, and stare up at the big black box on the left. You'll see two pieces that you need to disconnect. Both have white wire leads to them. The first is the motor. It has a round outer edge. Remove the 6 pin lead, then remove two 6mm hex head/phillips head gold screws from it, and pull it out. The second part is the square-ish duct. Remove its 3 screws, and push it to the side.
3) while doing the previous step, a bright yellow piece of the flap shaft should have fallen down on your head. This is an important piece.
4) use a piece of sandpaper and sand down the lip of the flap shaft piece (as per Buck's pictures), until the lip is no longer there.
5) clean the piece using CPVC cleaner
6) now take the lenght of CPVC pipe, and cut a 1 1/16" length of pipe. I used a pipe cutter because I had one, and it makes a very clean smooth cut. You could also use a hacksaw, but the edge might not be as straight.
7) use a fine tooth saw to cut a 1/16" notch of 5/8" length
8) coat the flap shaft piece with CPVC glue, then slide on the CPVC part, making sure it lines up exactly as described in Buck's pictures.
9) wait about 30 minutes to let this set properly. While you are waiting, get back into the car, into the footwell, and use the round file to widen the hole in the heater box through which your fashioned part will slide. I found it useful to cut another small length of the CPVC pipe and use that to test the diameter of the hole. It only takes a few go-arounds with the file to open the hole up enough... you don't remove much material at all.
10) slide in the fashioned part, making sure the notch aligns with the remaining flap shaft.
11) Attach the NEW stop arm (part # 5334701) to the flap shaft on the outside of the heater box. Do NOT use the old arm. The old arm was the reason this whole thing failed in the first place. (I got the part from a Saab dealer... the bummer is that the part is on a long backorder, and I had to pay a premium to have them ship one from California. But it still costs a lot less than an hour of a mechanic's labor).
12) before mounting the motor back up, put the lead back into the motor, then start the car and do a calibration of the ACC by pushing the AUTO and OFF buttons simultaneously. This puts the motor's shaft into the right position for assembly.
13) re-install the square vent piece (make sure you do this first, before the motor, as one of the screws is obstructed by the motor), and reattach its lead.
14) re-install the motor, making sure its shaft aligns properly with the flap shaft part.
15) start the car then do another ACC recalibration. You should see no codes come up!
16) re-install the trim plate and OBD connector.
It sounds complicated, but it is really pretty straightforward and simple. I thought it would be really complicated, but it isn't. The main hassle was just finding the new stop arm!
posted by 192.188.106...
, Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:33:33
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