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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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I have some questions. It was a mixed outcome this weekend attempting to work on my turbo trying to ensure that the new turbo lack of performance results was not due to a sick engine. Well In the morning on Saturday just opening up the garage to the bright sunlight and looking in on my engine under the bonnet with the bright light coming through the garage I looked at my engine with mixed emotions. Here is this beautiful strong engine that is ill and how do I heal her. So I start looking around her vacuum lines. I had not looked at her for about 4 days and I though a fresh perspective might yield some results. Well I was right! Upon tactile and visual trouble shooting of vacuum lines integrity I found a crack in a vacuum hose that leads to the brake servo booster attached to the salve . You know the 10 mm ID line that runs to the throttle body. This crack wen t unnoticed before because it was underneath and hard to see. Behind the hose clamp I had use there was a big crack that become apparent when the hose was manipulated. UREAKA I found the preverbal needle in the haystack. Or at a minimum one of the culprits to my performance problem. I am thinking to myself that my initial vacuum check yielded 15 inches vacuum under normal conditions and then went to 20 upon increase throttle and return to normal. Well at first I accepted this but I thought that the last time I had this checked the vacuum hung out around 20 or so and hit 25 on the hunt back to normal after pressing on the accelerator. this leak could be the reason. SO...I simply removed the vacuum line cut it and put the good line back on. I jump in the car to take a test drive and then it happens..no clutch. Upon checking my brake fluid reserve I notice it is empty and it was full and know my clutch goes to the floor with not resistance. So I start looking for the vacuum line under the reservoir to see if it popped off, this has happened before. No luck there. IT was still attached and the line seem to be intake. So I call up my mechanic and says you need to bleed your clutch. O..K...
Upon researching into the trusty Bentley manual it says to use the coolant pressure testing rig on the drake reservoir or to use a vacuum bleed unit. Well I bought the mighty vac instead of the $200.00 pressure unit. I thought this can work. well...I get home hook up one end to the bleed nipple of the clutch bleed valve and try to crack it a bit. Fill the reservoir to the top an cap it and begin the vacuum method. 1.5 hours later I have some fluid and a whole lot of air bubbles and clutch still goes to floor. Many time during this procedure I shut and reopened the bleed valve and check connections to ensure I was not sucking in air past the threads on suction line fitting but still could never get a full line of fluid in the line. I had vacuum up to about 20inches and thought this was to much but still the clutch has little or know restriction. What am I doing wrong? Does the reservoir need to be open to atmosphere? do I need to press on brake pedal as well as clutch. Do I need to start the car to pressurize system. Should I use the pressure tool instead of the might vac. If I can solve this problem where else and how should I use my new mighty vac to help in troubleshooting my less than expected new turbo problem. Can you really use the suggested vacuum gauge troubleshooting guide realted to signs of bad valves, timing, etc. Can I test the fuel vapor canister? I seem to always have back pressure in my fuel tank what could cause this?
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