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Re: No start
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Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:40:48 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Cold Start, Colby, Sat, 1 Dec 2007 21:23:28
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Have you added any drygas or fuel injector cleaner in the past two tanks of gas? Your car can't inject fuel if the fuel in the lines is iced up. Does the exhaust smell like unburnt gasoline when you crank it? How old are your cap, rotor, plugs, and wires? Do you have spark? Are your plugs fouled, gapped incorrectly, worn, or covered with deposits? Is your head gasket intact? If the coil can't light up the plugs, you're not going to start easily.
Now with the easy stuff out of the way, move on to the more reliable stuff.
The biggest culprit to cranks/doesn't start/no spark no-starts is the connector to the hall sensor. After that, the engine grounds and ignition switch. Since all your dash lights are working, your ignition switch is probably fine. After that, the ignition amplifier, which is not anywhere near the center console, it's on the driver's side inner fender, though it tends to fail on the first hot day of the season which you're not having. As for the ignition control units, which are either inside the passenger door on the footwell wall or under the rear seat, I have never, ever, ever had a problem with one.
Are you following the ignition troubleshooting procedure in the Bentley?
Pull- or push-starting your car that fast can't be good for the drive chains. Your starter motor only spins about 500 RPM. 4500 is, IMHO, asking to snap a timing or primary chain. Is the starter motor turning the cams? (Try disconnecting the coil, I MEAN IT, and cranking the engine by hand with the cap off and see if the rotor turns)

Either you don't have fuel (dead pump, pump relay, frozen lines, failed FPR, clogged injectors, leaks) or you don't have spark (hall sensor, cap/rotor/wires/plugs issues, grounds, battery voltage, ignition switch, or control unit). In order to rule these things out, you have to test them.


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