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Replaced Clutch Master  1 Saabers Like This Post!
Posted by eric in vermont [Email]  (#2058) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from eric in vermont) on Thu, 29 Feb 2024 14:59:11
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Last weekend I replaced the alternator bushings in my son's '92 900 and got rid of the squeal- it wasn't the harmonic balancer, it was the alternator.
So on Monday, I decided to take it out on a final test drive. About 10 miles in, I noticed...the clutch...was different. It's GOT to be my imagination! By the time I got to my destination and turned to go home, it was definitely closer to the floor. And by the time I got home, I maybe had an inch of travel. Crap.
Quick look and it sure looked like the clutch master was shot. So I ordered a new one and it came today- a Luk LMC259. It's cold and windy today in Vermont so I decided I might as well get a fire in the woodstove and replace it.
Last time I did this job on my '93 Convertible, I removed the underdash knee bolster thing which was a pain. This time, I removed the driver's seat and nothing else. It was fairly easy to get to the clip and the two nuts. A younger, more pliable person wouldn't have to pull the seat. I did release the alternator adjuster and pushed the alternator away to make room to get to the hose/tubing nut on the end of the master. Good advice: loosen the tubing nut before you loosen the master mounting nuts and also START the nut before tightening the mounting nuts. I had the old one out and the new one installed in about an hour. Two other pieces of advice: 1. Check to see if the pedal pin will go through the holes in the new master pushrod. Mine was tight and I had to slightly drill it out. Better to check the fit BEFORE you install the master. 2. The new master mounting studs aren't threaded enough- I added 2 flat washers and a lock washer to each stud to make sure it would completely tighten.
Next, I used the bleeding technique that forces new fluid from the bottom up. I have some big syringes I got off Amazon a while back and I put a short piece of tubing on the end of one of them. It fit over the slave cylinder bleed screw nicely. Before disassembly, I pushed all the OLD fluid back up into the master, then closed the screw. Then I sucked out the old fluid and half filled the reservoir with new fluid. Then I sucked up about 2 inches worth of new fluid and forced into the slave bleed screw and pushed it up until there was no bubbles, and then closed the bleed screw. Took no time and there wasn't brake fluid all over the place from normal bleeding. And, it was a one-person job. Clutch worked great first time!
Got the advice from the archives here. All worked great!
Final question- I did pull the old master apart and clean it out. The cylinder walls seem to look good. The inner seal looks like it failed. This is a VERY simple master- is it worth it to rebuild it? Does anyone do that anymore? The new one was only $40. And a seal kit can be had for under $10.
Hope you all have a great LEAP DAY!
eric in vermont
, Thu, 29 Feb 2024 14:59:11 <-- Viewing This Message
1, Sat, 16 Mar 2024 09:04:33
, Thu, 29 Feb 2024 15:36:43, Fri, 1 Mar 2024 04:29:22, Wed, 6 Mar 2024 17:46:45
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