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some starter tips (looong)
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Posted by Dan W [Email] (more from Dan W) on Sat, 11 Nov 2000 15:47:40 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: is replacing front wheel bearing a DIY job?, Her Saab, Sat, 11 Nov 2000 14:41:55
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It is not difficult - I've scarecly done any more than what you cite your dad does and I had little trouble with it.

You should have a Bentley repair manual, it will greatly clarify your task with pictures, intructions, and torque specs. Note, if student money allows, you should also check for wear/replace the ball joints as well, since you have to loosen them anyway to remove the hub that contains the wheel bearing. You and your dad can certainly do all the work (and it's not much) right up to the actual replacement of the bearing itself - unless you have tools/techniques, you might as well have a saab mechanic press the old out and new one in. It only takes them about 30min.

Some of the tools you'll need (as best I recall)

1) 32mm or 1 1/4" socket, in 1/2" drive. Also a suitable breaker bar. This is for the large hub nut, which can sometimes be on there really tight.

2)19mm deep well socket for the BJ spindle nut and tie end spindle nut. (If you choose to remove/replace the BJ entirely, also need a 17mm deep well and 17mm box wrench.) Also, replacement locknuts for each BJ/tie end.

4)17mm socket for brake calipers (if '86 or older. If not if may be a different size, I don't know)

5)post another message for techniques on getting BJ free from steering member w/o damaging BJ rubber boots. Also ask for method of "blocking" up control arm with a piece of wood, old brake pad, stack of washers, whatever....

6)penetrating oil

7)some outer CV joint grease to reseal the outer boot with when you reassemble the car.

8)a torque wrench (in the same drive size as you sockets, remember) is almost a must. You *don't* want to be thinking about a nut working loose as you drive around.... The high-torque hub nut will probaly be too high of a torque for whatever torque wrench you buy, so you can just crank it down super-tight with the breaker bar and take a *short* drive to a mechanic and they can re-torque it properly for you.

In *theory* it is all quite simple. If stuff is really rusted up though, it can be a frustrating weekend-long project. A Dremel tool, reciprocating saw (aka sawzall), or nutsplitter can be very helpful for stubborn BJ's. Make sure you set aside enough time to get it done so you're not freaking out about missing school, etc. Been there.... ;o)


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