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I doubt it, but.... Anders (SWEDECAR) probably has a better answer. I don't know whether the TCS computer would pay attention to the DI, but I doubt it. There is no communication that I can see between trionic and TCS.
Is your TCS CTRL light on? If so, do it come on as soon as you start the car or not until you move? If not until you move, check the wheel sensors and other ABS components. If it seems in any way temperature related (ie, you have to drive for awhile before it happens, or it goes away after driving for awhile), then take a good look at the safety valves and the throttle.
The best first steps seem to be:
1: check all the vacuum lines Unplug and clean all the connectors you can get to. I use a spray called Electrosolv, just because that's what we have at work. There are various spray cleaners for electrical connections. DO NOT SCRAPE THE CONNECTIONS WITH ANYTHING.
2: check resistance of the safety valves. The one on the wheelwell doesn't see as much use as the one on the firewall, so it may last longer. Therefore you might want to switch them around to see if that changes anything. The resistance should be about 30 ohms when they're hot.
3: check the resistance of the throttle. Look at the Townsend Imports website under Electrical>TCS/ABS. They have a document called "throttle body tests". This will tell you what the throttle should read.
4: check the resistance of the pedal potentiometer. It is not easy to get to, so you might want to wait until you get to step 5
5: pull the TCS computer out from under your seat. Find the wires that go to the throttle (see #6) and pedal. With the throttle and pedal plugged in, check the resistances at the plug for the computer. There shouldn't be any real difference from the values you got when you checked the throttle directly. If there are, check the continuity of the wires.
6: look at the Townsend website again. There are about 5 pages of "ETS (Electronic Throttle Control) Pin Checks". Do these. (Note, when I did these, my crank position sensor didn't measure anything close to what it should have. But it works. Hmmm.... Also, there are a few checks you just won't be able to do with a regular meter.)
At this point you should have some clue what the problem is. If you didn't find anything weird, you might just go to the dealer and have them clear and recalibrate the TCS computer. (Maybe that should be step 1.5?) Sometimes that does it. In my case, it took a long time for me to find it because it was an intermittent problem.
If anyone sees something wrong with the above, please let me know. We should try to put our heads together and make one really good TCS newbie write-up.
P.S. I just read your other posts, and I see you've already done some of this... But maybe someone else will find it helpful. As to your miss, I've just accepted that 9000's seem to miss at idle for no good reason. I'd love to fix it, but I've given up. Pretend it's a racecar. My dad's Sprite has such a radical cam in it that it will only idle for 30 seconds before dying. But in a car like that, it's all part of the fun.
posted by 130.91.5...
, Sat, 10 Apr 2004 10:09:35
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