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Thanks for your comments. I had initially tried to bleed the rears using the pump (per manual), but at the time the pump wasn't running. So I tried the manual method, which worked on one rear wheel, but the other one showed no fluid in it. And when I run the pump now (jumping it), I still don't get any brake pressure -- the pedal isn't soft or spungy ... it is rock hard and pretty much at the bottom of its travel (the fluid reservoir is full, and there shouldn't be any giant air pocket, because I' bled the front lines successfully.
I've seen in various postings or FAQ that when you turn on the pump, the system also opens/closes various valves to the rear lines. So is it possible that the one to the "empty" line is not opening? (Of course, the line should have been full of fluid, anyway, when I opened the bleeder valve.)
BTW, all this started when I was simply flushing the system to replace the old brake fluid (which was REALLY bad). However, I did at one point screw up and allowed the fluid reservoir to get too low.
Also, would appreciate knowing how to remove the accumulator, so I can see if anything has leaked into it.
re CW and indie saying the master cylinder is not rebuildable -- well, for $750 (or whatever a new one costs), I'm willing to give it a try? Sounds like it will be a good idea to hone it lightly to get any deposits out of it. (In my experience, indies in general don't like rebuilding parts or selling rebuilt parts because if there's a problem, it comes back to them. They'd rather fix it "right" the first time -- which is understandable, but I'd rather try to fix it CHEAP the first time (exercising due caution just in case the brakes don't work at all!).
--Graham
PS: And I thought a BMW 7-series was complicated ... it's a TOY compared to the Saab.
posted by 24.250.118...
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