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For once, Murphy's law failed Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 2 Jul 2007 05:42:44
In Reply to: No heat from ACC in Saab 9000, SM, Sun, 1 Jul 2007 17:48:42 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
First, run a self-test. To do that, press the VENT and AUTO buttons (top left, bottom right) at the same time for a couple of seconds. The system will take off by itself. This also is a self-recalibration, and quite often that fixes things. When all comes to a halt, if you see a Zero in the display, there are no faults; hit any button to return to your regularly scheduled programming. If you see a number other than 0, that's the number of faults. The bad news is that you need a dealer and/or Saab indy specialist to read out the ACCII faults. That may be a bad ACC board or a bad servo. Not usually the case.
If all is well, set the temp to HI. Do you get heat? If you do, it may be the temp sensor in the dash (little bulls-eye grating right by the seat heaters.The fan may have jammed up. Check the archives on cabin temp sensor.
There are two hoses going into the (false) firewall - make sure they are hot (be careful!) when the engine is warm. If they are, keep going; if not, there is a blockage in the core or leading up to the core.
If you got no faults and setting the heat to HI didn't fix it, open the hood and remove the horizontal plastic cover at the base of the windshield. Just a few screws. Look at the heater box right in the center, and then look to the right side (facing forward, passenger side in US cars). You'll see a little shaft coming out with an arm, and a wire on the arm that dives into the firewall. If the arm is broken, that's the problem. The good news is that Saab sells a "heater arm repair kit) for about $10 to fix it.
If all looks well, have someone change the heat setting on the ACC (while the car is running) between LO and HI and back again. Watch the wire coming out of the firewall. If it moves back and forth, the servo is doing its job. If it isn't moving, pull on the wire - if you can move it, it has fallen off the servo, and you need to pop the top of the dash off to fix it. If it isn't moving and you can't move it, the servo or the ACC is bad, but the self-test should have caught that.
IF everything moves right, the arm isn't broken on the outside, but you only get cold, the problem is the linkage inside the heater box. The good news is the parts aren't that expensive. The bad news is that the labor is a bear. Pulling those parts requires removing the heater blower ,and down to (but not) the heater core. If you've gone that far, I'd recommend replacing the heater blower motor, and possibly the heater core. Lot of money for parts, but you DON'T want to go back there again, and if you're planning on keeping the car, the blower and/or core will need replacement.
Why Murphy's law? Inside the heater box there are flaps that direct air over the heated core (or not - for cold). If the linkage breaks, the flaps fall one way or another. Murphy's law says that they fall to the hot side in summer, and cold side in winter. If the flap linkage has broken and you get cold in summer, you've violated Murphy's law.
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 2 Jul 2007 05:42:44 <-- Viewing This Message
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