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Re: Alternator replace? Rebuild? Compatibility? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 24 Jun 2008 07:19:12
In Reply to: Alternator replace? Rebuild? Compatibility?, dim33, Tue, 24 Jun 2008 06:34:27 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
A whining alternator is the sign of either bad bearings or badly worn commutator. The high voltage out of the bad VR wouldn't hurt the alternator - not so good for the car's electrics, but the alternator won't care.
Question 1 - when you turn the key to ON (don't start the car), do you get a Battery light? If not, the thin green or yellow wire going to the D+ connection on the alternator isn't connected properly. That won't cause whine, but it will keep the alternator from working. It might not be a bad alternator, just a bad wiring job.
Question 2 - is the battery light on when driving? If it is, the alternator isn't charging. Again, it may not be an alternator issue.
Question 3 - what is the voltage when the engine is running? Do you see 12.5 volts or less, or do you see 13.0 volts or more? 13.0 means the alternator is working; 12.5 or less means it isn't.
The problem needs to be broken into four parts-
(1) is the alternator wired up right (thin wire to D+, and beyond into the dash)
(2) Is the new VR good? Just because it came out of a box doesn't mean it works.
(3) Is the alternator electrics OK? Basically, an alternator is just a bunch of wire - not much goes wrong. There is a diode block internal. If a diode fails, the alternator won't work right. You'll get a battery light and low voltage (12.5 or less when running)
(4) Is the alternator mechanicals OK? This is basically the bearings. You can have bad bearings and the alternator will charge just fine. The alternator can have a charging problem and good or bad bearings. The way to check is to take the belt off and spin the alternator by hand. Feel for play. If it feels smooth and there is minimal play, the bearings are probably OK. If it feels like the bearings are filled with sand, they're shot.
For the price, I would not ebay an alternator. Personal choice. My first choice would be to go down to a local Autoparts store and see if you can buy a rebuilt alternator. You should be able to get one for about $130 or so. Why this way? If it doesn't work, you can bring it back. Try that on ebay. This is the quickest approach. And when you give them the old alternator as core, pull out your new VR and stick in the old 'high voltage' one. They're just going to trash it when it goes to the rebuilding shop.
Second choice is to find a decent automotive electrics shop and have them rebuild the alternator. This may or may not be less expensive than a rebuilt from the autoparts store. It will take longer, so the car will be out of service.
But charging problems are usually NOT the alternator itself - it's a spinning metal thing with wires, and wires don't usually fail.
So -
Do you get a battery light when the car is ON but not running?
Do you get a battery light when the car is running?
What is the battery voltage when the car is running? Use the EDU, but also stick a voltmeter on the battery terminals to check.
posted by 192.249....
, Tue, 24 Jun 2008 07:19:12 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 24 Jun 2008 12:15:59
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