1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Nothing wrong with Sam's advice but I want to say, could cost you far less if you're mechanically inclined and blessed with nearby reasonable junkyards that have a '96 CSE. I personally am not sure this is the only car you can use, I'd have said 96 to 98; also, an Aero of these years. Maybe Sam knows a reason why not later years and why not an Aero.
And part of my cheapness is yes, use a stock T5 BPC, until and unless it gives trouble or as you wish to budget one of the Newton Systems wonderful T7 kits.
At a junkyard, you will harvest:
l. The BPC, and its bracket, and the two Torx screws that attach it, off the radiator fan shroud on driver side. Unplug the red plug that hooks to it - - pry the ribbed red top up a little with a small screwdriver. While then tugging ribbed top upwards and tugging it off the BPC at same time, it will come loose. Note this plug; your CS has the very same plug, unused, looped back and held out of the way with a zip tie from the factory. Once everything's on your car, snip that zip tie and plug in and you're in business. Everything, even the screws, will fit perfectly on your CS; the screw holes are already there in the fan shroud, same spot.
2. The BPC hoses, which, whatever rubber they're made of, are likely to outlive anything. Leave em on the BPC; at their far ends they're held onto nozzles with little spring clamps, which you need to hold open by grabbing with pliers or those tiniest vise grips, then slide back up the tube a way, then prying if you need to, unplug the hoses. Note where they go, on paper with a sketch or take a pic.
3. The ECU, which lives up under what's lovingly called the aquarium cover, ahead of the windshield. Lots of little hex-head sheet metal screws to remove, maybe 6mm or 1/4". One Torx screw, I think in center. Also there's a hose pass-through for window wash, to unplug; and a long rubber gasket strip over its front edge to pull up. Cover off, ECU is on driver side, held into a galvanized bracket by two prongs of the galvanized bracket itself, which you push back with thumbs while sliding ECU straight up. You also need to undo another hex-head screw that holds a gray plastic block to the same galvanized bracket. That frees up the wiring some. Then once ECU is up you unplug it by swinging back an arm on the plug, sort of ejects it as it swings. Oh, also another screw, torx maybe, that holds the ECU's ground strap to the bodywork. Label the ECU so you can tell it from your CS one, they look identical.
4. Now, also, you may want to harvest the tee fitting in a vacuum line across back of motor, that feeds a vac hose in thru the aquarium to lead to the boost gauge in the dash. You can use that tee; note where it's installed. The hose will probably be rotten because it's so old so definitely get some new vacuum line. I'm partial to Wurth brand line, from Eeuroparts, rubber but a good grade. I don't like silicone, it sweats and gets sticky and swells sometimes. But look where it runs to - - there's a tiny metal line that passes through the firewall, way up high and out of sight from above, and on the inside of the car under the dash it emerges where another length of hose carries vac-boost to the boost gauge in the dash. On your CS it will be capped with a rubber cap under the aquarium cover; if you want to you can use it instead of drilling a hole to pass the rubber line through.
5. You might if you're really bold want to harvest the cluster from the dash of the CSE, which has a factory built in boost gauge on it. That means taking off the dash top, which has some tricks to it. First pull both speaker covers, then several visible torx screws at back under speaker covers, also one I think straight up under ledge overhanging the instrument cluster, and one straight in behind the SRS badge over the passgr air bag. (That badge pulls straight out, one end is a long plug and as I recall, down in its hole is the screw.)
On driver speaker cover lives the alarm system LED and you need to have care when lifting it; you can pull the LED carefully down thru the grille, or you can work its wiring up from below and about 6 inches down it unplugs.
You lift near edge of dash a little, then tug it backwards. The windshield edge has some clips that latch onto a slack fat steel cable that runs across the car (think safety I think). You have to be very careful of the speaker cones, they're fragile and if original even more brittle and dragging the dash over them can ruin them. Also there's the Day-Night sensor, that black dome thingy, up thru front edge of dash, with a big coil spring under it. Lift dash up and over that.
The cluster (tach; speedo; and coolant, turbo and gas gauges, plus pictogram and some warning lights) as a unit is held in by two torx screws, one at each top corner, and sits down in two loose rubber cushions that go over two plastic prongs out its bottom edge. There are two card-edge type connectors that plug on, one on each side. And a big multixonnector in from back, into the EDU unit that runs the pictogram etc. Oh and the rubber boost-vac line, about 10 inches long, curls over in a lazy S to the pipe I told you about that leads from other side of firewall. Don't lose the rubber cushions for the bottom tabs.
I haven't done this yet, only harvested the parts, but it looks as if with a little disassembly you can remove the speedo and install yours in that cluster, to keep mileage accurate, or remove just the coolant-boost-gas gauge side of things and swap that onto your cluster.
I'm ashamed to say I have two complete kits for doing this, and haven't yet installed either. And also ashamed to say I paid I think $20 apiece for all the parts - - maybe I have too little invested in it?
Also, my car didn't have a sticker when I first got them, and I was afraid of anything that would draw a cop's eyes my way. Now fully legal, and eager to gain some boost.
posted by 71.173.8...
, Sat, 12 Apr 2014 12:09:21, Mon, 14 Apr 2014 12:55:36, Mon, 14 Apr 2014 05:29:27, Tue, 15 Apr 2014 14:57:45, Mon, 28 Mar 2016 08:25:58, Tue, 15 Apr 2014 22:49:22
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
