1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
First, replace the fluid in the reservior with DOT 4 (I used to use Castrol but switched to Valvoline - go ahead and buy two quarts, as you'll go through this much on your first time doing this) by either suctioning out the old (turkey baster, large syringe, with tubing to fit) or siphoning. Note that there are many chambers down in there, and you'll have to fish around with your suctioning tube to get it to the bottom. Depending on how dirty your old fluid was, you may have to flush out the reservior with a couple of small additions/removals of new fluid.
Re-fill the reservior almost to the top.
Bleed your clutch first. The nipple for clutch bleeding is within the top of the bell housing area connecting the transmission to the engine. You may have to remove a black plastic cover. Note how it is inserted prior to removal, since I've found it difficult to get back in. Attach clear vinyl tubing to the bleed nipple. 1/4 inch works OK, but 5/16 is also a good option. Have a long enough length of this to create an arc of tubing up and away from the nipple, then going down into the receptable of your choice. This arc will show you the bubbles and keep them from being drawn back into the nipple if your assistant lifts the pedal before you close the nipple, if you choose to use the pedal method.
To provide pressure to bleed the system, either have somebody help you by moving the pedal for you, or pressurize the system with a bicycle pump. Some people advocate cutting a bike inner tube, closing one end and tying the other end around the filler neck of the brake fluid reservior (radiator clamp works well) and pump it up to 10 psi. Watch your fluid level carefully. You will have to replenish several times. When clutch bleeding, it need only drop down about two inches from the top before you're admitting air into the system. That's not a disaster; you can get rid of those bubbles easily by running a bunch more fluid through. When bleeding the brakes, keep it above the fill level indicated on the reservior.
For the pedal pumping method, open nipple, pedal down. Keep pedal down, close nipple, pedal up. Repeat. Continue until clear fluid, bubble-free, is seen.
To bleed the brakes, it's easiest to remove wheels to see what you're doing. Open the nipples with a six-sided socket; avoid using an end wrench, as you're likely to strip the edges of the nipple with the wrench.
Avoid letting the fluid level get too low, as you'll admit air into the ABS system, and the pump will mix that with the fluid you'll have to add next, and you'll have micro-bubbles mixed thorougly with your brake fluid and you'll be very sad. Believe me, I was sad once. It might even pay to have somebody extra helping, just to watch the brake fluid level.
The bike pump pressurization method is far superior and worth the extra time spent. Avoid high pressures, as they're not needed to move the fluid at a decent pace. Also, better to keep the ignition turned off, so the ABS pump is not running, because if you get air into the ABS pump and it's running, bad news.
Good luck and make sure you get all the bubbles out of your system.
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