1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Need Help Fast - 92 9000 Turbo!!! Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Fri, 22 Dec 2000 09:21:37 In Reply to: Need Help Fast - 92 9000 Turbo!!!, Gavin Gray, Thu, 21 Dec 2000 21:15:38 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Start with the basics. You did the spark plugs, which is good. I assume you checked the gap before you put them in, and set the gap to the value in the manual/on the decal in the engine compartment. I also assume the plugs are the exact NGK's specified in the manual.
My first thought when I hear poor idle is a vacuum leak. At idle very little air is flowing through the system, and there is a vacuum that shows up any small hole. At full throttle, the extra air of a vacuum leak is lost in the great flow from the turbo, and since you're running at atmospheric pressure or above, air goes out, not in. Check ALL hoses. Look around for any hose that may be cracked, or just plain fell off. Next, take a torx driver and remove the right front turn signal assembly. Look in with a flashlight. You'll see the charcoal canister, but more importantly, you'll see hoses going to it. Make sure the hoses are on and in good shape. Turbos like to blow the hose to the intake manifold off, and since you can't see the canister easily, it goes unnoticed.
Make sure the clamps on the short, fat hoses from the intake plenum (throttle body) to the intake manifold are tight. Check all air hose clamps.
Check the hooter valve - the black canister about 2 inches in diameter, with two thick hoses, and one thin hose going to the intake plenum. Pull the thin hose off the intake manifold, and give it a good suck. If you can pull air through it, then the diaphram in the hooter (aka 'turbo bypass') valve is shot. In a good valve, you should feel major resistance. Replace a bad valve. Track down every possible air leak from the AMM through to the intake plenum.
Because of the diagnostics in the Trionic engine control, misfiring will cause the Engine light to come on. Heck, with the new diagnostics, everything causes the Engine light to come on.
My guess is that the car has a few problems, with the DI problem masking the others. Now that the DI is fixed up, you notice the others. Or, quite simply, something got knocked off while installing the new DI. Especially check around the intake plenum for a small hose that got knocked off, or a hose that got hit and developed a crack. With the car idling, press and pull up on hoses - sometimes there is a crack on the underside that will open or close when you move it. If the engine note changes when you move a hose, inspect it carefully.
After these quick checks we're into fuel system - but I expect (hope) it's a simple vacuum leak.
Good luck!
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.