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Re: Brake master cylinder Posted by DougM [Email] (#211) [Profile/Gallery] (more from DougM) on Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:57:07 In Reply to: Brake master cylinder, saabstory [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:55:30 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Do not open all of the bleeders on the calipers, at least not from the start of the job. Leaving the fluid in the lines and calipers is OK while you replace the master and work on the booster. I'd recommend removing the booster from the car to POR15 it, so you have to remove the lower dash panel to access the 3 nuts that hold it to the body. Under the hood is two wires at the back of the assembly, and a clip and pin that hold the "draw rod" to the assembly(picture #5 of the link I posted). You're fortunate to have the later style master, so you only need to remove two lines from the master, DO NOT use a wrench to start the lines when reinstalling the master. Always make sure you have a few good threads started before cranking on them, and if you strip a line, remember I warned you. Leave the master loose when starting the lines, as it's easier to get the lines started that way. If you bench bleed, and don't open the caliper bleeders, then you should instantly have a good pedal when reinstalling the master. You might need to have someone push on the pedal while you open the master lines one at a time, but bench bleeding should eliminate that step. It doesn't hurt to do it anyways a few times just to be sure. You can then open the bleeders on one caliper at a time to gravity flush the fluid, which should be done every two years anyhow. Careful on the bleeder loosening. Originally they all had rubber caps to keep dirt and moisture out from rusting the seats, so most come loose easily, but if you snap one off, then it's time to replace calipers. Always use a 6 point wrench or socket for better grip, and no strip.
Are you really ready to man up?
posted by 76.189.12...
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