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Re: dougM info - lost info on 77 to 79 head swap plz repost Posted by DougM [Email]  (#211)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from DougM) on Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:19:41
In Reply to: dougM info - lost info on 77 to 79 head swap plz repost, scott k, Mon, 17 Nov 2003 21:05:32 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I thought you said you were going to use the engine from the 79 and plop it onto the 77 transmission? That would be the easier way to go instead of ripping the 79's motor all apart to transplant the parts on the 77's unknown condition. Make sure the front covers of the tranny are the same. I think 79 used a newer style cover and I don't know if they interchange....and I think the front motor mount is different too. In any case you may be able to use the 77 tranny and the 77 front motor mount.
There are 16 bolts that mate the engine to the tranny. Seven on each side and two on the pulley side. You have to remove the starter to get to two of the bolts, and the long bolt I referred to is all the way forward on the driver side under the oil pump. Keep the bolts side to side segregated, because the Haynes manual says the ones that screw into the block(driver side bolts) have a different thread than the passenger side bolts(which screw into the trans). The book also states to use sealant on the front and rear flanges of the mating surfaces when re-installing, and use a gasket too. I use sealer all the way around the mating surfaces whether I use a new gasket or not(I have done it both ways). NAPA sells some anaerobic gasket sealer that I have used with good luck the last two jobs I did. It is also called loctite 518. The book also shows to use thread sealant on six bolt on the passenger side(instructions linked below)...anyways, you have to mess with the clutch first before dealing with those mating bolts....so...
Before you un-hook the line to the slave cylinder(actually you can leave the line hooked up if you remove the clutch assembly while the engine is still in the car and lay the slave out of the way....that way you don't have to bleed the clutch on re-assembly)...as I was saying, you need someone in the car to push on the clutch pedal to compress the fingers of the pressure plate while you stick something behind the fingers to keep them compressed, I use a 5 gallon bucket handle bent to fit. If you don't get the fingers compressed enough, you won't get the clutch, pressure plate, and disc out of the car without damaging something(and if the slave is extended to far, it will blow out the seal, and then you're screwed). Damage to the slave is very easy at it is only made of soft aluminum. Once the fingers are compressed, you can undo the three bolts that hold the slave in place. Pull the round cover on the front of the tranny and you will see the input shaft, dead center of the bearing. The thread for the hole in the center of the shaft is the same thread as a pressure plate bolt, so I just stick a bigger washer on it and thread it into the shaft a few turns. I then use a long prybar against the case to pop the shaft out. The book shows to use a slide hammer to do this, but I've had good luck doing it my way. Let me know if you need more info..
Oh, and mark all the wiring with masking tape and a pen so you remember how it all goes back together.
posted by 68.68.16...
, Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:19:41 <-- Viewing This Message
, Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:33:29
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