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Any shop that works on fuel tanks knows that you fill it with an inert gas, such as Argon or CO-2, that won't allow the vapors or varnish to ignite.
As for the idea of replacing the carb with injection, that's got it's own gremlins.
There are lots of ways to get better power out of the existing set-up. A tuned header will help a lot _if_ you open up the rest of the exhaust.
How to get 53 HP out of a "stock" 1200cc 40-HP VW Bug engine (and techniques that can help improve power in any engine). My old boss in Maryland was running a Bill Scott built engine from when Scott was driving for VW of America in the European Formula Vee championship series:
Something that Formula Vee builders were doing years ago, that never got protested because everyone was doing it, was to turn the journals on the crank to fit .040-over rod bearings. By turning the journals off-center, they effectively lengthened the stroke of the pistons and increased the final compression ratio.
Balancing the rotating masses (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel) will improve the inertia transition when accelerating. Imbalance robs power.
Tuning for improved power also includes porting and polishing the head to match the header, and matching the head and intake manifold ports.
Someone else suggested shaving the deck on the block to increase compression.
Dyno-tuning the carb jetting might add a little power, too, although I'm not sure there is a lot you can do to a Zenith-Stromberg. If the existing jet and needle are worn (pull the piston out and look for wear on the needle) replacing them with new ones might help.
Find a twin Weber manifold for a B-motor and get a couple of 40 DCOE Webers, then dyno-tune _them_.
posted by 216.239.167...
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