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crank seal Posted by Dan [Email] (#2459) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Dan) on Wed, 20 Aug 2008 22:09:39 In Reply to: sorry for the repitition..., Slyde, Wed, 20 Aug 2008 21:25:40 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Those seals can be a pain to replace. Every 99 I've had but one leaked from behind the crank pulley. What I learned to do, to create more room, was first to break loose the bolt holding the pulley on. To do this I would get a socket or box-end wrench on the bolt and then brace the wrench on the frame of the car. After UNPLUGGING THE COIL, I would then turn the engine over, only just briefly...one revolution is really enough, to start the process. I then remove the nuts holding the engine to the mounts near the fenders and jack the "back" of the engine up. This will tilt it forward giving you a bit more room between the engine and firewall. If this isn't enough I have had to remove the front mount nut and lift the whole engine allowing it to slide forward a bit. (note that depending on how well your exhaust is routed you may start creating clearance issues an may want to disconnect the downpipe from the header)
Getting the pulley off should be a snap. Getting the old seal off can be a bother and you really don't want to scrape the aluminum cover in any way (if you do, you can usually remedy the problems caused by using anaerobic gasket sealer on the metal before you install the new seal.) I have fashioned a few curved flat-head screwdrivers for this purpose. After you get the old seal out putting the new one in can also be tricky but different brands can have different problems. SOme have a guide lip- a bit of metal exposed that doesn't have the rubber ribs on it, allowing the seal to be lined up nicely. You'll have to gently tap the seal in until it is flush. Maybe not exactly where the old seal was but close.
Good luck.
dan
posted by 24.144.18...
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