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You can test your coil with an ohm meter. The resistance between #15 and #1 (primary winding) should be 3.1-3.6 ohms. You can replace with Borg Warner E40 if yours is shot. Point gap should be 0.016" (0.4 mm) and you can use NAPA CS313 to replace or to cross reference for other brands. You should be able to take your condenser into a local parts store and match it up to one that will work (matching mounting bracket). I believe that the older VW's or inline 4 cylinder Ford Capri use the same style, try a Niehoff WA 218. It should have a capacity of 0,18 -0,22 microfarad. Other parts & #'s: Distributor cap - Borg Warner C546 or NAPA EP274, Rotor - Borg Warner D555 or NAPA EP278.
I have found that the point system is easy to diagnose where as the black box type can be a mistery when something goes wrong. Most people who talk about having changed over to the Pertonix type unit keep a spare set of points & condenser with them just in case the black box gives up on them (which they sometimes do). So a good understanding of setting up the point system is a must.
With regard to timing, here is Jack Ashcraft's method for timing the V4:
1. Remove the engine cover from the front clip (Sonett). Clean the front engine cover to reveal the raised marks on the timing cover. From left to right they are 3 degrees ATDC, TDC, 3 degrees, 6 degrees, & 10 degrees BTDC. Note that the crankshaft rotates anti-clockwise.
2. Set the timing with a strobe light attached to the no. 1 cylinder's spark plug wire. (No. 1 cylinder is the one behind the alternator).
3. Disconnect the other 3 spark plug wires from the spark plugs and the hose from the carburetor to the vacuum control unit. If your car still has the hose from the intermediate plate (below the carburetor) to the second connection on the vacuum control unit (for retard) disconnect that hose also.
4. With an assistant turning the engine over, set the ignition timing at six degrees before top dead center (BTDC). Loosen the bolt at the base of the distributor and rotate the distributor as required to set the timing at six degrees. Re-tighten the bolt. Re-check the timing--it should still be at six degrees BTDC at cranking speed.
The reason for setting the timing at cranking speed (instead of at idle speed) is that many Bosch distributors pick up mechanical advance at as low as 300 RPM distributor/600 RPM engine. Therefore, since the normal idle speed is 1000 rpm, one can have as much as 5 degrees advance! Under these conditions, if the timing is set at what you think is 6 degrees, you will actually have 11 degrees. Too much initial advance and too much maximum advance can cause pre-ignition (pinging) and a lot of heat build up in the cylinder head, to the point that you can burn a hole in the crown of the piston--right below the position of the spark plug.
5. With your timing set at 6 degrees BTDC at cranking speed, hook everything back up that was removed in step 3 and recheck the timing at idle speed. You will quickly see what your distributor is doing.
Good luck!
posted by 24.71.1...
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