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, Thu, 13 Aug 2015 16:58:41
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Thanks Eric. You've got me thinking.
I've got a VDO volt gauge in the cabin. I'm solid slightly below 14 no matter what.
The engine (RH cylinder head) is ground both at the supporting bar as well as passenger suspension bolt. Both very heavy duty wires and secured real well. Battery is mounted in the trunk. Battery cable is really well secured on a well exposed (no paint) metal contact.
The car has never blown a 8amp fuse with either a 35, 75 or 100 amp alternator. At least not without a simple explanation (usually me doing something stupid).
Since the introductory variable is the addition of the cooling fan, I can only assume the cooling fan is suspect # 1.
The cooling fan is wired almost exactly per Ashcraft book. Has a ordinary everyday relay. The cabin has an override switch & ground to the back of the metal dash. I know it's a solid switch & has a good metal ground contact for sure. I use a 900 in-line radiator thermo switch to automatically kick on the fan which grounds to the front of the engine. One thing I may change is that both the radiator fan and thermo switch ground to the EXACT same both on the engine. I'm going to separate the two ground contacts as step one.
With the cabin switch on, it grounds to the dash. When the thermo switch has reached 190 degrees it grounds to the engine. Both are grounded when I manually turn on the switch and the engine has reached operating temperature. I'm going to unplug the thermo switch to see if that triggers any different behavior when the radiator fan is triggered by the cabin switch. Then I'm going to unplug the cabin switch to see if that triggers any different behavior when the thermo switch triggers.
I'm going to check to make sure the thermo switch grounds through the switch only. I wonder if the thermo switch hose clamps or something else has metal to metal contact with the switch thus intermittently grounding the thermo (metal)to another metal contact as well as the prescribed engine ground.
If cooling fan checks out, I'm going to reground both the headlights. Headlight grounds are suspect # 2.
The starter suggestion intrigues me. Even though the starter was rebuilt locally, the solenoid unit has always been a bit loose. I shielded my wires pretty heavily because of the proximate location to the floor pan is rather alarming (for all owners). So I rule out any contact on the floor pan. Regardless, the solenoid recently came very loose to the point where both of the fine threaded screws were missing. Ugh! So I found a set of screws to fit, secured the solenoid back to the starter housing (snug). Here's an odd thing, the starter use to produce a pronounced quick start. Now that the solenoid is once again secure, it sounds noticeably weaker, different and seems like its struggling. Like what the heck. I think the starter is probably more suspect than others but the others above are relatively easy to do. So I think the starter suggestion is suspect # 3.
Mark Z
posted by 24.52.12...
, Thu, 13 Aug 2015 16:58:41, Fri, 14 Aug 2015 10:59:40
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