Balance chain removal experience + pics (long) - Saab NG900 & OG9-3 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Balance chain removal experience + pics (long)
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Posted by Bob900 [Email] (more from Bob900) on Mon, 5 May 2008 10:13:44 Share Post by Email
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97 900 2.3L Manual 117k. Reason for removing, the timing chain tensioner is at 18mm, the engine was fairly "chain" noisy in front, on and off slight vibration on idle. Also, when I renewed the idler pulley I was able to listen to it without the serpentine belt in place so I knew the noise was from either the timing chain or balance chain or both.

Read all of the posts here, thanks guys, esp Anders (your gallery pics are great). Removed the front 2 sub-frame bolts and loosened the back two. I eventually removed the middle 2 as well (man those are on tight). Used a jack to help hold up the sub-frame. Removed the pan bolts (you need to remove the flywheel inspection plate to get at 2 of the pan bolts). Whacked the pan with a rubber mallet a few times and it popped loose. Slowly lowered the jack enough to drop the sub-frame enough to get the pan off (rotated the pan slightly in the process). There was gunk in the pan (looked like some of the dried gasket sealant) and some other unidentified stuff on the bottom of the pan and on the screen but the screen was mostly clean. There were 2 small sprocket tips in the bottom of the pan. I suspect they a were from a balance chain sprocket. Dremeled off the link at the bottom of the balance chain (that was a PITA) and carefully pulled it out the bottom while rotating the engine with a socket on the crank bolt). Sprayed the area where the chain was removed with brake cleaner to get out the dremel tip debris.

Replaced the oil pump sump seal AND the 2 seals on the transverse tube (they were all cracked). Also replaced the oil pressure sensor (it was leaking). Cleaned up the pan, used a feeler gauge to help remove the pieces of the old sealant. Wiped the pan gasket surface and mating engine surface with acetone and applied the loctite 518 gasket maker to the pan top. Put the pan back in. Used a small amount of loctite blue on pan bolts (some were loose when I took them out). Tightened till it felt good (not enough to warp the pan, probably around 12-15 ft/lbs). Put sub-frame back up. Left it sit for a day. Refilled oil. Started it up. Leak free.

Here are some pics:
http://www.pix01.com/gallery/AFDE32E0-CE15-405D-8120-8010AE955883/balance-chain/

The oil pump piston was slightly scored. Enough to see, barely enough to feel. Gently cleaned that up with fine steel wool.

Results. It's definitely quieter. Engine vibrates very slightly more. Not really noticeable at idle or above 2000 rpm but a little noticeable in between (while accelerating). Later this week, rolling in the timing chain. Do I really need the special tool that holds the chain against the camshaft sprockets for that??

posted by 192.146.151...


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