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Re: slave cylinder Posted by pete [Email] (#2000) [Profile/Gallery] (more from pete) on Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:16:03 In Reply to: slave cylinder, feq451, Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:22:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
crankshaft seal, differntial seals (2), and the "nice to do all at the same time" list: replace the cv joint boots, tierod ends, wheel bearings, check the springs in the struts to make sure they haven't snapped, strut mount bearings, engine (1) and transmission mounts (2), check the ball joints in the control arms.
(had to do a clutch job, so did all of these at the same time). Timesaver for the future.
For mating the tranny back on the engine, I found using three jacks much faster. Two either side to line up the bolt holes either side, and a third jack to push the end of the tranny up and down to align the shaft. Try not to move the flywheel at all (rotationally) when tightening the clutch plate to it. That way, the splines on the tranny will match up perfectly with the flywheel when putting it back on. If the flywheel does rotate at all, this can greatly affect the time it takes to push the splined shaft into the crankshaft. (Ask me how I know!) Marking the flywheel at the edge with a paint pen and on the engine at the same spot BEFORE removing the clutch plate (which causes the flywheel to move) will assist in mating the two greatly and possibly save you hours! I wish I had thought of this while I was doing it! And remember to pressure bleed the slave clyinder BEFORE mating the tranny back to the engine.
Good luck!
posted by 208.118.11...
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