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Just did this, so I thought I would write it up here. There really are no "gotchas" at all, removing the oil pan is fairly simple, and straight forward.
Make sure you have a new o-ring to replace the one in the oil pickup tube.
Loosen front lug nuts, jack up the nose of the car and put it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the heat shield on the turbo.
PB-blaster the nuts holding the exhaust to the turbo, as well as the ones at the first connection after the catalytic converter.
Remove the plastic shields from under the nose of the car, as well as the crank pulley cover.
Remove the flywheel inspection plate. 2 x 11mm I believe.
Disconnect the electrical connections for both O2 sensors, and pull the sockets out of the mount. Pull the O2 sensor cables out and place them so you can easily remove the exhaust. The connectors are keyed differently (at least they are on my 01 Viggen) so you shouldn't be able to put them back together incorrectly...BUT it certainly couldn't hurt to mark them :)
Remove the exhaust down pipe with the O2 sensors...be mindful of the O2 sensors as you are removing the exhaust.
I took off the bolts that connect the rear engine mount to the subframe, and put a jack under the engine to support it. I was unsure as to how much the subframe would drop, and how much the engine would want to move. the object here is to get the subframe away from the engine, if the engine is still connected to the subframe, then they will both move together to some degree. I'm not certain this step is 100% necessary, but it is simple, and only 2 bolts.
Break the torque on the oil pan bolts, just get them loose at this point.
On to the sub-frame.
There are 4 bolts with a 16mm head, and 2 with an 18mm head.
The larger two are the tight ones, though I was able to get them loose with a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 18mm 6 point socket.
Break the torque on the middle two bolts.
Completely remove the two front bolts that hold the sub-frame to the frame.
Completely remove the middle two bolts.
Remove almost all of the oil pan bolts, leave a few in place, threaded about half way in. Get a rubber mallet, and give the pan a few smart raps here and there. Obviously we don't want to be too over-zealous whacking on a 500$ cast aluminum oil pan :). The bolts you left in the oil pan will prevent it from suddenly dropping, perhaps to the ground, if it lets loose suddenly.
Once you have the oil pan knocked loose from the block, remove the remainder of the bolts holding it to the block.
You should now be able to remove the pan from the car completely. You are trying to get the oil pan on the flywheel side to clear the bottom of the bell-housing, you may need to pull down on the right side of the sub fram to accomplish this.
This was written from memory the day after removal of the pan, hopefully I did not forget anything.
BTW, my pan was spotless, as was the pickup screen.
posted by 69.106.185...
, Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:04:18
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