1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
It took a while to get my hands really clean after I switched to programming. The dirt and the many large heavy objects (1200 lb transmissions, 255 lb cranks, 190 lb flywheels, etc.) were an incentive to switch careers.
As far as oil goes we used Chevron (I think it was called Dela) SAE 30 and Shell Rotella-T SAE 30 depending on who gave us the best deal on bulk purchase. If I remember correctly Shell Rotella is CD/CE rated and is for N/A or turbocharged engines. Shell Rimula SAE 40 was recommended for some of the Detroit Diesels they are 2 strokes with a scavenging blower (AKA supercharger).
We never had any engines fail because of poor lubrication. Mack ESI+ diesels had 3 large spin on oil filters and had a 60 US qt capacity pan (that's 15 gal!!). They also had 60-80 psi of oil pressure when hot.
I don't have much experience with the little diesels, but common sense says to follow a good maintenance schedule. Change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter regularly. The air filter is more critical in a diesel than in a gas engine. Diesels use a lot more air. If you have a turbo you will notice there is no waste gate. If the air filter is clogged fuel dilution will be a problem. I can't think of any reason a diesel should burn more oil than a gas engine if it is in good shape. Other than the fuel and the way it is ignited the mechanics of a diesel are the same as a gas engine.
If you start to notice more smoke than usual it's time for a tune up. If you have a shop manual and the courage, remove the injection pump and the injectors and take them to a diesel shop for calibration. Don't attempt to take them apart, leave this to the specialists. When you reinstall the pump follow the timing procedure in the shop manual. It's not rocket science but you may need some special tools for timing the pump. Mack required a hand pump that replaced one of the check valve in the transfer pump.
Sorry to ramble. If you're still awake I hope this answered your questions.
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