1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
This is really quite an easy job and you'll get an opportunity to see your NG900 from a whole new perspective...But, if you're going to do this job, be prepared...
First things first, you have to remove the transmission dip stick tube...Suggestion, buy a can of engine cleaner/degreaser and clean the lower end of the engine thoroughly, also under the battery...While your at it, might as well get the grime off the rest of the engine too, as dirt traps heat and can cause the engine to run at slightly higher temps...
Put the car in neutral, this position will be neccessary when adjusting the new trans switch position...Don't forget, chock the wheels...
The transmission range switch is located directly beneath the battery tray, so you'll have to remove the battery...Depending on the year, you may or may not have to move the power steering fluid hose and bracket, there is one small bolt holding this in place, looks more complexed than it is...
Next, remove the nut from the screw that secures the dip stick to the transmission/range switch...This is the part that makes your heart sink a little, wiggle the dip stick tube slightly, DO NOT FORCE FROM SIDE TO SIDE, pull the tube upward at the same time...It takes more effort than you'd think, be patient, all of a sudden, out it comes...At this point, you will understand why you want the area around the dip stick tube, ABSOLUTELY IMMACULATE...Any dirt that was in the surrounding area will now be in the hole that used to be occupied by the dip stick tube...
Remove the combination nut/bolt that holds the left side of the range switch in place, the bolt actually acts as a guide pin for re-aligning the switch...Remove the nut that secures the selector cable to the top of the switch and remove the cable selector from the range switch...You'll notice there is one more nut, this also needs to be removed...Here's the catch, there is a pronged washer holding this nut in place, you'll need to flatten the four prongs in order to remove the nut...You might not see them, but you can believe it, they are there and probably turned in a direction that makes it difficult to get to...Once the nut is off, remove the pronged washer, there will also be a thin rubber washer, remove it too...
On a V6, lift straight up on the switch, it's probably stuck...I used some penetrating oil and waited, then tried to remove it again...The switch can be quite stubborn...On an '94, maybe through '96, 4cyl., there will be one more bolt that needs to be removed...It's located in a most precarious position beneath the battery mounting tray...You will need a specific height socket, about 1 1/2 inches high to clear all of the obstructions that you will encounter...It took me a while to find the right one and you'll have to be somewhat of a contortionist to get to it anyway...But, it can be done...
Follow the lead wires back to an area between the engine and the firewall, you'll see two connectors...This is the fun part, there may be an electrical strap holding/locking the largest of two connectors together...
Cut the strap off...Be carefull not to cut the wires...Once you've achieved this, the connectors come apart like any other modern connector, a couple of side clips, pry them slightly outward and pull the connectors
apart...
Remove the entire range switch with it's own wiring harness...You may find that the harness is also secured with wire ties at different locations, you'll have to be on the lookout, remove them as neccessary...
Replacement is the exact opposite of removal...Tighten everything down, don't forget to push the prongs back up on the washer, locking the nut in place...
Chances are the car is no longer in neutral either, so, put the gear selector back in neutral...I had an assistant sit in the car holding the shifter in place...When re-attaching the selector cable, it is important that the "finger" of the selector cable assembly point directly between the two lines scribed on the new range switch...If it is not between the two lines, loosen the bolt and slide the range switch until it is properly aligned...Re-tighten bolt...
Put dip stick tube back in hole, again, it will take gentle persuasion...Replace nut and tighten...Replace the power steering bracket...Put battery back in car, maybe cleaning the terminals for good measure...
All in all, not that tough of a job and it gave me an opportunity to find other potential problems like, the protective plastic casing covering the positive cable leading back to the starter had detiorated slightly...The cause, it was rubbing against the transmission tube bracket through normal vibration...Had this gone undetected for a longer period of time, well you can only imagine the fireworks...
And, most importantly, it's great to start off in first gear again!!!!!!!
posted by 166.90.23...
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