1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
drs_install
You can install a drive belt, in the same pattern as the stock arragement, not using the lower plastic idler pully (the one right above the crankshaft pully).
This allows you to use a $15 aftermarket belt that you can get at almost any parts store. You will not have to change that lower idler pully in the future which will save around $37US. And its a real big PIA to change that. So you save on the belt, the pully and the effort to replace that pully. The dealers seem to be wanting over $50 for the stock Saab belts these days.
You run the same grooved tensioner idler pully, no change there. So get the belt, and install it so it goes straight from the tensioner's pully to the power steering pump wheel.
I marked the tensioner round body section with the old belt in place, and with the new belt, the tensioner seems to be around 1/8" rotated more open. So the new belt is slighty 'long' for this configuration. But this is a very small amount in my mind.
You want a belt that is an equivant for a GM 10-085-752. I got on at AutoZone with a 970K6 cross reference. It is a 6 rib belt, 2.5M in length. It cost me $15.29 plus tax. (It was made in Canada [I'm in KS])
I have a rear brake caliper pin that is great for locking the tensioner open.
You cannot use the belt from the new 9-3's that have this configuration. It is too short. The newer 9-3's have a differenct tensioner and pully, and that pully cannot be mounted on the NG900 style tensioner.
This belt was posted earlier by someone else, reporting what a mechanic had installed. I think that this is the first DIY report, and a confirmation of the earlier report.
The belt that I am reporting will be way too long for a Saab without AC. These might exist, but not in the North American market.
This change should work on all 1994 ng900s thru 1999 9-3's with airconditioning.
95SET 145000 miles
posted by 208.24.179...
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