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I've put this up on the other boards and forgot I hadn't gotten this up on here for anybody else who has a hard time finding this info.
Since I found it extremely difficult to find this information posted anywhere I writing this up.
This will apply to the b204/b234 engine blocks. I believe this write up will hold true for the b205/b235 blocks as well with the only difference being the oil pressure sensor located more behind the starter. The gauge used in this write up is the Autometer Ultra-Lite mechanical oil pressure gauge full sweep reading 0 to 100 psi.
Some of these steps will only apply to the ng900/og9-3 as I installed this gauge on a 99 9-3.
Tools needed.
1. Leatherman multi tool or any of the sort
2. 1/2 ratchet, 6 inch extension, 15/16th socket or 24mm socket
3. 3/8 ratchet, 6 inch extension, 19mm socket, and 7/16th
4. 3/8th wrench
5. 13 mm wrench
6. Gloves (personal preference for certain tasks)
7. Hydraulic Jack and stands.
8. Philips head screw driver and 10mm socket (part of this is optional I'll get to why)
9. Empty bic mechanical pencil
10. Torx head (think its t15)
11. M14x1.5 adpater for oil pressure sensor (I'll explain)
Procedure
1. Remove drivers lower kick panel has a 8 torx screws if I remember correctly and one 10mm bolt by the door.
2. Get the gauge mounted in the car by whatever means you chose to.
3. Wire it up as you'll only need a power source and ground.
4. In the engine bay remove the fuse panel box by the firewall. There is one 10mm plastic bolt holding it down hiding below and off to the right of the hood sensor switch. Will also need a flat blade screwdriver to help pry off metal clip under weather stripping running length of car. The fuse box won't move out of the way much but it'll move enough to be helpful.
5. Locate rubber gromet with wiring loom going through it. Remove electrical tape and cut zip tie with leatherman tool.
6. Take bic pencil and disassemble. Pull front tip off but don't discard. Use plier end of leatherman to make the hole where the insides of the bic pencil go through. Reinstall cap of bic pencil onto the pencil itself. Now insert at the very bottom of the looms grommet and push through.
7. Back under the dash and above the clutch to the left you'll see the wiring loom your going through. If pencil has been pushed through enough you'll see the tip. Take leatherman pliers and pull on tip gently not pulling the pencil through anymore but to get the cap off.
8. Run nylon tube through grommet into engine bay via the pencil tube.
9. Go back into the engine and remove pencil tube after pulling all the nylon line through. Make sure you do not kink this nylon line or you'll be SOL.
10. Disconnect battery. First time I attempted this and learned I needed some other tools I hit the positive cable with the adjustable wrench on the starter. Thank god I had gloves on at the time cause I got a shower of sparks.
11. Jack up the car. Now depending on where your jacking from and placing your jackstands will determine what I'm about to say. I have a very short lifting jack so I had to remove the lower air shield to place my jack stands. There are a hand full of phillips head screws and one 10mm bolt. Otherwise you can put your stands under the pinch welds.
13. Get under the car and disconnect wire to oil pressure sensor and use leatherman to break the quick connect tab and junk off. If you have a deep 15/16th or 24mm socket then not a neccessary step. I however had to and enjoyed it lol.
13. Slide on the 15/16th or 24mm socket with 6 inch extension and 1/2 inch ratchet onto the sensor and remove it. It will set off to an angle because of the dip stick tube so be careful.
14. Thread in now the M14x1.5 adapter and make sure the sealing ring it came with is on there. This is used so you can use the NPT fittings that come with the gauge. You can order the adapter from any autometer gauge dealer. This is where you'll use the 19 mm socket with 6 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet; get it good and tight.
15. Now the next smaller size, sorry that I can't remember it however I think its close to 7/16th, is for the first compression fitting in the gauge install kit. Get it nice and tight.
16. Run nylon tube down to back of the block. Run it through the center of the last compression fitting, put the ferrule on so that the tapered end is pointing toward the block. Start it by hand on the compression fitting in the adapter. Take your 3/8th wrench and get it above and behind the oil dipstick tube and tighten it down good and tight. Make sure as your doing this that the nylon line doesn't slip out. Once its good and tight the ferrule will make the final seal and the nylon line won't budge.
17. Drop car back down, re-attach lower air shield if you removed it, re-attach battery cable, re-install relay box, re-install kicker panel and start her up. The gauge will climb up in pressure to about 40 psi then back to 0. This is normal as the line fills with oil and the air passes out. Should come right back up no problem.
Sorry I don't have pictures to show as I did this install over an extended period and I don't own a camera. As to those that will complain that I used no sealant. I'm a cheap **** in college and got it good and plenty tight. However I am watching the line, fittings, and my oil level very closely and if I have to will go out and pick up some loctite or something equivalent and get back into it to seal it that way.
posted by 192.195.23...
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