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You want to be wary about making snap judgments about drivability problems (since ignition, compression, etc. could cause the problem as well as the carb) but if it starts and runs OK at all times except on warm restarts, the choke is a good "prime suspect."
You mention that you "pulled the choke all the way closed" -- does this mean you have converted to a manually-operated choke? Or did you pull off the air cleaner, reach in, and operate the choke linkage with your finger? (aka "digital choke.")
If you've converted to manual choke, you may just not be using the right amount of choke for warm restarts. What I do with mine is that starting from cold, I use full choke, but when starting from warm, I leave the choke open all the way and pump the pedal about four times; this squirts enough gas in to start it. Once it's running I pull out the choke just enough to keep it idling... then gradually push in the choke as it warms up.
If you're still running the auto choke, the plate or linkage may be sticking, or it may not be operating because the flow of coolant past the thermostatic actuator thingie is restricted. (The thermostatic actuator is supposed to reduce the amount of choke as the coolant warms up, but if the coolant isn't flowing the choke will stay on too long.) Unfortunately, there's no easy way to diagnose this except to take off the air cleaner and watch how the choke plate behaves as you go from a cold start to a warm engine, and what it does when you try a warm restart.
Anyway, if there's no obvious choke misbehavior going on, don't forget that lots of other things could cause this: fuel supply, plugs, points, distributor cap/rotor, cables, coil, etc., etc.
posted by 204.76.11...
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