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Let's get back to basics. The circuit is simple enough on the outside. There is battery voltage applied to one side of the alternator light in the instrument cluster whenever the key is on. The other side of this light is connected to the alternator. It's the small wire.
When the alternator is not spinning it is a ground for the battery light. With the key on and the engine off the battery light should be as bright as the other warning symbols. If it's not you may have a problem in this circuit. The voltage on this wire is needed to turn the alternator on once it starts spinning. Then the alternator starts making voltage and the warning light goes out.
The other circuit is the positive cable. With the engine running if you do a voltage reading from the stud where the positive cable connects to the positive terminal of the battery you should read near zero volts. Be sure to test from the center of the stud to the actual center of the battery terminal. I know it's not easy. If this measurement is anything over one volt then you have a voltage drop/high resistance. If you have a voltage drop of 2 or 3 volts you start moving the probes until your reading drops and you pinpoint the high resistance. It may be that there was not enough clean copper for your solder joint. I hope this helps.
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