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Posted by vvack0matic [Email] (#1443) [Profile/Gallery] (more from vvack0matic) on Mon, 31 Mar 2008 11:24:27 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Pay mechanic to replace wheel bearing or DIY?, Eiron, Mon, 31 Mar 2008 09:21:49
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the hub may have taken more damage with the hammering or mushrooming, & grinding the spline, which may play into the tire ware or not
in any case make sure to mention this to your mechanic before any work is done, make sure to mention how the left hub is stuck also, just to let them know he/she could be in for a nightmare.

if the wheel bearing was bad when the wheel is in the air put one hand on the bottom of the wheel and the other on the top.
try pushing the top in and bottom out, then bottom in and top out.
a bad wheel bearing will show a small amount of play, depending on how bad the bearing is depends on how much wiggle you get.

more wiggle more tire ware. the alignment people should have informed you about a bad wheel bearing & if they did this meant that they can not in no way get the car aligned. if they mentioned the wheel play this means that they can get the alignment as close as possible, but the car will still be out of alignment when they are finished.
in getting the alignment close, means when the new wheel bearing/ or problem is fixed, the alignment of the car may or may not be correct.
for them to say your alignment is with-in specs, means it can land anywhere from -15 to +15 degree toe(these numbers are not spec. but its to get the visual)
but, if the tire flops with-in these degrees its still in spec`s.

if a tire flopped the full spectrum of -15 to +15 degrees, the car would be undriveable.
more than likely you have one tire at a 0 degree toe and the other flops 5 degrees from negative to positive toe leading to the tire ware.
now if for some reason there is no wiggle in the wheel your problem may not be wheel bearing at all, but more like outer c.v. joint.
bring this up to your mechanic, (make sure to inspect the outer joint)



posted by 209.16.118...


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