1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Nanette:
Since you've asked about your clutch hydraulic system in the past and since you say THE flare nut, I'm guessing you're talking about your clutch master cylinder and not the brake master cylinder as Saab Nutt may be presuming. (Also you mentioned the two nuts from interior of car, as on clutch master, whereas brake master cylinder's two nuts are in engine compartment on the brake booster.)
I personally don't think any heat should be needed or would be any help and the downside from playing around with hot flame under the hood can be significant - - including losing hoses, wiring, car, garage, house. This isn't an area that gets real corrosion and once loose, the threads should be clean and willing to turn.
I remember my experiences on clutch master cylinder as being no fun at all, space is very limited there and any motions you can get the wrench to make are just a few degrees.
That's why the crowsfoot on a ratchet is one recommendation. (Never owned one so I don't know how much it would help.)
Just getting the flare fitting to START turning is a big step. Have you achieved that yet?
Once it's turning it may be possible to turn it the rest of its way out by hand. Double up the gloves and change them often - - get a whole box. And fight off the hand cramps.
The real trouble here comes from the friction between interior of flare nut and the steel line that it attaches - - if that line is pulled or angled at all, it rubs hard on the flare nut as you try to spin it. Once nut starts to turn, try getting a friend to wiggle the fluid line around as you try to spin the flare nut loose.
If getting flare nut to even begin to turn is holding you back, try and finagle a strong friend or neighbor into trying for you. It will also need to be tightened tight on reassembly, remember.
Another tip I think I posted on here once, is, using an open ended wrench on that flare fitting, once it's loose, TIP the wrench so instead of at a right angle to the axis of the master cylinder, it's at about a 45, and you can spin the nut with the wrench many more degrees before bumping into anything and having to reset the wrench.
Loosen-tighten tip, look at the nut from face on and it's tighten clockwise, loosen counterclockwise. Can get confusing but return to look at the nut from face on, or imagine doing so where you can't actually look straight at something, and you will reassure yourself.
Good luck and keep posting.
posted by 70.105.251...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |