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Re: Harmonic Balancer/Crank Pulley: how big a job? Posted by DougM [Email]  (#211)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from DougM) on Thu, 29 May 2008 18:12:42
In Reply to: Re: Harmonic Balancer/Crank Pulley: how big a job?, Cary, Thu, 29 May 2008 15:38:52 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
HB(crank pulley) is at the firewall < very tight area to work in, and greasy too! The HB is two pieces, one inside the other. The interface between the two pieces is rubber, which breaks down in time causing the two pieces to not move in harmony anymore.
I started the job today by removing the AC tensioner pulley and AC belt, to see if that was the cause of the squealing < no such luck. Since I had bought a new HB back in December, I decided to have at it.
17mm wrench to loosen the 4 nuts holding the AC compressor on, then remove the bolts and swing the unit out of the way.
10mm short well socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump pulley on, then remove the pulley. The same socket is used to remove the outer pulley bolted to the HB(three bolts) < this is done by feel since you can't see the bolts.
13mm socket and wrench < loosen the two power steering adjustment bracket bolts, then use a 13mm open ended wrench to de-adjust the pump so you can get the belt off. With the PS belt removed, you can now remove the two alternator belts.
1 3/16 six point short well socket and breaker bar < the tool needed to loosen the crank pulley bolt. It's not that simple though, as you need to jam the flywheel or the pulley just spins when you turn the breaker bar.
What I ended up doing to jam the flywheel > removed the air intake snorkel, AMM, two pieces of turbo ducting, and the air filter box. I also removed the 13mm headed bolt on the driver side holding the flywheel cover on. With that bolt removed, you can move the cover enough to gain access to the flywheel. I jammed a prybar in a tooth of the flywheel, then used the transmission case as a stop. One hand on the prybar, the other pulling on the breaker bar, and the crank pulley bolt finally broke loose. I did break one breaker bar, possibly when I added a cheater pipe to the end of it to get more leverage.
You should also replace the rear engine seal, and remove the oil pump to replace the pump o-ring while you're in there. I had the two parts on hand, but didn't replace them at this time.
posted by 75.187.23...
, Thu, 29 May 2008 18:12:42 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 29 May 2008 12:15:00
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