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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Nanette:
1. Those hose clamps are everywhere, you want the smallest ones.
2. Yes, bolt on new master cylinder, run line flare nut all the way in, bolt two nuts tight to firewall, then TIGHTEN line flare nut down firmly. Slide "clevis" pin thru the yoke linking the clutch master push rod to the clutch pedal and attach clip.
2A. Should you be concerned about the old fluid? Well, some are and some aren't. If you want a truly flushed out clutch hydraulic system with all new fluid, back up to before Step 2 above, that is, DON'T attach line to master cylinder, and pour some new fluid into the clear plastic line and blow lightly till fluid coming out line at end near master cylinder is clear and looks new. THEN attach line to master cylinder, bolt it all home, etc., and proceed.
2B. Expensive blue can of brake fluid? Saab calls for DOT 4, a higher than standard grade that I guess is a little less likely to do something highly unlikely anyway, that is, boil when brakes are scalding hot - - but they never get scalding hot. Some use DOT 3, the standard grade. I tend towards DOT 4 and have a bottle of it on the shelf. There are also special other brake fluids, one a kind of liquid silicone, which I think is blue. If your can says other than DOT 4 I might think twice because I don't think silicone and Types 3 or 4 mix and there might be other reasons not to use it.
If your chipmunk cheeks hold out and are strong enuf to force the fluid up thru, you shouldn't need the power bleeder. And if your hand is steady so you don't spill any, the CMyles method is very economical of brake fluid. Might get by with a half pint bottle with plenty to spare.
I'm not sure what the $60 power bleeder is and so I can't say. Post brand on here, and read the instructions, and someone might know more.
You'd only need to do one method, unless of course whichever you try first doesn't work for you.
How do you know if it has worked? Once bleeder screw is set down tight, get in the driver seat and push the clutch pedal. If all is well it will go down with the usual force of a healthy clutch system, springy firm pressure, and feel as if it has done some work. Then try to start car with clutch pedal pushed in and tranny in gear. If it's not bled, or not bled of enough air, starter will want to move the car - - you'll still be in gear.
Sometimes one can be very close, just a few bubbles still in the system, and get partial disengaging of the clutch but still have trouble shifting (gears will clash or be hard to shift, especially first and reverse). If you have no disengaging or partial disengaging with pedal fully depressed, then pour more fluid into the line, crack bleeder again, and repeat.
When all is done you'll want to be sure the clutch line nut into the master cylinder is fully tight so as not to come loose, and that the bleeder screw too is fully tight. Not a Hercules or rather in your case Wonder Woman effort but a good firm set, similar to what you had to fight against to get them loose.
Also, brake fluid is an alcohol and stings mightily in the eyes or on mucous membranes like the lips or mouth. Spit any out and rinse thoroughly with clean water if you get sprayed or rub your face with fluid-y hands.
Have fun, you're almost there, so close you can't miss.
posted by 70.105.237...
, Fri, 6 Jun 2008 11:09:01
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