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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Nanette - -
Unless you've cracked open a brake bleeder screw or a brake line somewhere (how could you?), it would be impossible to have leaked air into the brake hydraulics and you shouldn't need to worry about bleeding that part of things. The clutch supply is only a small pond off the side of the brake reservoir, and it can fully drain without dropping the brake reservoir level down enough to affect the brakes.
I repeat, you are really close and almost done.
That line from clutch master up to the reservoir must have not been on tight and it leaked. But it shouldn't be under any pressure except gravity from the reservoir above. That it didn't show any leaks, but then did just as you tried the pedal, I think is coincidence.
If it were me, before I got back into bleeding the clutch system I'd try just topping up the fluid in the brake reservoir. It seems to me your clutch hydraulics might have been fully bled before you spotted that leak, and if so it was a leak up above the clutch master cylinder, in the make-up supply of fluid that's there to flow down only if the closed-system fluid in between the master cylinder piston and the clutch slave piston drops in volume, which it can do in tiny amounts over time as a bit gets past the seals as they work.
So pour a little fluid into the brake reservoir. It needs to be enough to flow over the wall that segregates the clutch supply from the main reservoir. Once that side reservoir is full it will self bleed any bubbles out of the feed hose, by gravity.
Then check your clutch pedal feel, and if it feels good and no leaks show up, try the car.
If not, do the bleeding routine again; you make it sound as if it waas pretty easy for you.
If a little leaks past the threads of the bleed screw okay, as you're keeping pressure on all the time and no air is entering. But bleed screw should only need to be a turn or so loose from bottomed out, and nearly unscrewed would mean more leaking past threads. Some have suggested on here that you run a turn or two of teflon pipe thread sealing tape around those threads and reinsert the nut, to help seal that leakage.
(Teflon tape, sold at hardware stores in a tiny roll, is almost microscopically thin, snow white, kind of stretchy and easily torn, slippery plastic filler, no adhesive. You wrap the starting end around your threads, then holding it down apply tension and give it a full wrap plus some, ending by pulling till tape breaks. Do the wrapping in counterclockwise direction so when you screw the bleeder screw in it wraps in the direction you are turning the screw. Don't get any across the mouth of the bleeder screw, or the front part that seals against the seat. But I don't think you will need to re-bleed, and I think even if you do, you can get by with tolerating the seeping at the bleeder screw.)
You have remembered to fully tighten the clutch line-to-master cylinder flare nut, and the bleeder screw, I'm sure.
Please no overboard praise, my ears are burning, and I can make mistakes so hope I don't mislead anyone. I anted to help. This has been a kind of long job for you, and you need to get your car back on the road.
posted by 70.105.23...
, Fri, 6 Jun 2008 11:09:01
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