1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Vvvaccckkk:
Studs aren't mild steel. A cobalt alloy drill bit is what you want, maybe 1/8" to start, then up-size to 3/16" for final hole, then in goes easy-out.
But the hole HAS to be down the center of the stud, and that's not easy.
On a 9000 I recently did this, with mixed results on two studs. I took at brass fitting, 1/8 NPT Male threaded end by 1/4" hose barb, and chucked it in a power drill and held it against a file to take the hex part down to just fit into the hole in the manifold, 7/16"plus a tad. Then I wrepped the threads with about three turns of masking tape to make it a snug fit down into the manifold. Then I also cut off a couple of the barbs so I could get the drill to go in far enough. The hole up the middle of the brass barb section is exacly 1/8" inside diameter, made a near-perfect centering device, except the soft masking tape let it cock to the side a little I guess as I drilled.
The first one I did worked perfectly. By hole two, the ID of my centering rig had worn out and let the bit move some and as I said I think it also cocked to the side, and the hole I drilled went out the side of the stud, further down in. Worse when I enlarged it with the 3/16" bit. I ended up grinding a Sawzall blade down to just a needle size, and grinding its end to match the end of a T-mount jigsaw blade, then used the jigsaw to slice the busted bit of stud thru all the way and picked the remains out of the hole. A royal PIA and why they suggest taking head off and using a machine shop.
But with good access, and being careful, it can go well for you. Drill slow and with enough pressure, not so much you snap the drill bit off tho.
O I also bought a 1/8" pin punch and ground its tip to a cone shape to use as a centering punch, right down the middle of my centering guide.
posted by 71.173.6...
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