1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
internal pressure in the transmission at all. I still would be nervous about the
internal condition of your transmission. Maybe you ought to pray to the
transmission god for another seal failure so they have to replace it.
As for your questions.
I do not know for a fact that the power output is kept lower in the auto Aero due to
reliability concerns. I have heard this many times in the last few years on this BB.
I also remember reading about this in Nines. It is typical for car manufacturers to
limit output unless the drivetrain can stand up to the power. When the Ford SHO
first came out it was offered only with a standard because Ford did not have a automatic
that could take the torque.
The ZF transmission has a reputation of being weak anyways. Why did yours have to
be replaced at only 45K miles? It was either abused by the previous owner or operating near
it's maximum capacity.
When you complete your upgrade, you will have an extra 20-25 % torque available.
That means you can exert at least 25% more stress on the drivetrain. So of the people
with manual transmissions start to have clutch slipage problems after upgrades.
I'm not advising to forget the upgrade, but just letting you know the potential downside.
I do not have a 3" exhaust. I have a 2.5" cat-back Saber SS system. It only has a rear
muffler. It is not at all loud, but at least you can hear it, unlike the stock system. I have
heard Zeke's monster with it's 3" downpipe, high-flow cat, flow-through rear muffler.
It is not all that loud either. Something like the stock 8-valve 900 turbo sound.
I did not use Maptun. Unfortunately I choose Abbott. I won't go into the reasons on this
post, but if you read my post of a couple of days ago you will see why I say that.
By the way, when I ordered my Abbott ECU Giles stated that the upgrade would
be limited due to the transmission. My upgrade resulted in 260 ft-lbs torque as measured
on a dyno. The Hp on the dyno measured about 220 at the wheels. An estimation of
crankshaft Hp considering drivetrain losses yield about 250 compared with a stock crank
Hp of 200.
Maptun, as well as some of the other Swedish tuners have a good reputation on this
board. You should check out SQR, Chipcenter etc before you make a descision.
As for the BPV, I use a high-pressure Borsh valve that is used on a Viggen. The Forge valve
is very good.
As for the air filter box, I removed the box from the fender well and using a 2" hole saw cut
3 holes in the plastic. Covered the holes with metal screening to prevent big stuff from
getting in. I have a K&N filter in the box. With this mod you can hear the whine of the turbo
as it spools up and also the whiiisshh of the BPV valve when you lift the throttle. But only
when the window is open.
I actually think my fuel consumption got better with the upgrades. For normal driving
you end up using smaller throttle openings to get the same power as the stock system.
I average about 23 mpg on a 30 mile commute into Boston. First 5 miles around a small
town, next 10 on a highway doing 75-80, last 15 in stop and go traffic.
I must say a turbo and an automatic transmission is a marridge made in heaven.
The torque converter allows the motor to "jump" to the rpm range where full torque
is available. There is no turbo lag. I bet my Aero will stay ahead of a 5-speed up
to 60-70 mph. I don't have to shift 2 times in the process of getting there. You do
have to go somewhat easier on the gas initially because you are traction limited.
Have fun with your plans. Let us know what you end up doing.
Sorry for the long post.
jj
'95 Aero
Sorry for the long post.
Good luck with your plan
posted by 140.102...
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