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Re: Replacing A Crankshaft Pulley
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Tue, 3 May 2005 05:34:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Replacing A Crankshaft Pulley, Pierre, Tue, 3 May 2005 03:40:23
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Not a big job, but there are a few things that have to come off first.

Obviously, jack up and support the right front, and remove the fender inner-liner.

Next, you'll need to remove the serpentine belt. See various posts and websites on this, but start with http://www.quasimotors.com/belt_install.htm
Actually, all you need to do is compress the tensioner, and slide the belt off the idler pulley. Removing the belt requires removing the tensioner pulley, and that's not necessary if you're keeping the belt and pulley. (See more below)


Next, remove the bolt holding the pulley on. If you have an impact wrench, that's perfect. If not, there are two methods that I know of. In the first, you stick something nice and stout in the timing mark hole by the flywheel - a BIG screwdriver works fine. Turn the engine to lock it into place, and then stick a big breaker bar on the bolt. I don't use this method.
I use the 'Townsend' method. No screwdriver. You need some prep first - BEFORE you remove the belt (see above) start the car and remove the fuel pump fuse. The engine will die. Leave the fuse out. Since you've got a DI-equipped car, pop the connector off the DI - no spark.
Now, get the appropriate socket (27 or 30 mm, I can never remember). Put the socket on the bolt, and put a nice breaker bar on the bolt, hanging down just in front of the lower suspension A-arm. Get into the car and turn the key to Start just once and then back to off, very quickly. You'll hear a bang as the breaker bar hits the A-arm. Get out, and make sure that the socket is still properly seated. See if the bolt is loose. If not, repeat. It usually takes a few times - maybe as much as a dozen and change, but the bolt will get loose.
Once the bolt is loose, it comes out very easily. No need to keep the engine from turning. The pulley slides right off.

If you're replacing the pulley, DON'T FORGET to swap the apeture wheel - that's the little bent metal bit screwed to the back of the old pulley with three screws. New pulleys usually don't come with them. It's critical for the crank position sensor.

Replacing the seal is very easy - with something sharp (old dental tools are great for this), pull out the old seal, noting how far in it was. Take the new seal and push it on, being careful to put it in straight. Not hard at all. Just DON'T put it back in the old position - put it at a slightly different depth, either farther out or in, so it rides on a different part of the crankshaft.

Many folks like replacing the oil pump O-ring at this time. The oil pump is that bulge surrounding the crankshaft - the O-ring is the seal between the back of the pump and the face of the timing cover. Unbolt the (many) bolts on the oil pump and pull it off. The O-ring is behind it, Holding the new one in place with some gasket cement helps. Repack the oil pump with some vaseline so it'll prime before you put it back.

Replace the crank pulley, and use a screwdriver in the flywheel to hold the engine while you re-torque the bolt to 130 ft-lbs. That's a lot.

Reinstall the belt, don't forget the fuel pump fuse, and you're good to go.

If you haven't done the serpentine belt tensioner or idler pulleys in about 60K miles, I'd replace them - the belt is off anyway. And you can replace the belt while you're at it.


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