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Re: Ari's Trionic no start test Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Fri, 8 Sep 2006 08:52:11
In Reply to: Ari's Trionic no start test, yaofeng, Thu, 7 Sep 2006 17:14:08 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Going over what you did, some thoughts-
Step 3. You didn't get any voltage. Basically pin 10 DI connector) is the power to the DI from the main relay, and pin 6 is the ground return.
Measure the resistance of pin 6 to ground. You should get continuity. If not, you've got a bad ground at G7, which is the bracket on the rear of the engine.
I'd also run the test by measuring the voltage on pin 10 with respect to chassis.
Pin 10 of the DI is connectied directly to the switched part of the main relay. According to the Trionic manual, that would be connected to pin 87 of the main relay. There has always been some confusion about relay pinouts. According to the Trionic manual, the main relay has pin 30 as the wiper of the relay and tied to power. Pin 87 is the contact that will connect to pin 30 when the relay is energized. I have seen relays where pin 87 is the wiper, which would be connected to power. In that case, pin 87a would be the switched contact. When you look at the relay contacts, are you reading from the relay itself or what is printed on the socket (if anything?).
Assuming the ground to the DI is good, I'd measure the resistance from pin 10 of the DI connector to various contacts on the main relay socket. If 87 is always hot, I'd look for continuity from the DI pin 10 to 87a on the relay socket. If that continuity isn't there, it imples a wire fell off, or something like it (which is pretty unlikely).
If 87 is hot and 87a is connected to pin 10 on the DI, then jumper 87 to 87a on the socket. You should hear the IAC click. If so, then I'd still suspect the relay. You checked the relay - it closes and measures low resistance across the pins. But if the main relay carries a lot of current - even a little bit of resistance, well under 1 ohm, on the contacts, and it won't be able to pass enough current to drive the system. I suspect that is what is happening. From the tests so far, I suspect a bad main relay. I'd swap it out for another relay (like from your '94). I suspect that if you pop the cover off the relay and clean the contacts, it may start working.
posted by 192.249....
, Fri, 8 Sep 2006 08:52:11 <-- Viewing This Message
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